Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Thanks Robbie!!

Treat it as any other boo boo.......turn into a decoration.

If you're looking at humidity control in your shop the first thing to look at is beefing up insulation and reducing drafts. When I built my shop I stuck R2.7 batts in the walls and ceiling. I ran a dehumidifier for a couple of years but found that when the thing was off for a few days the temperatur...

Nice work on that uke. Current maximum allowable file size is around 30Meg...you shouldn't be having problems uploading. If files are less than 30Meg in size then it's more likely they are corrupt.

I keep telling my (Japanese) wife I employed wabi sabi when I chose her.....and she suddenly gets really mad at me

Thanks for taking the time with an intro and some nice looking work in those photos.

demonx wrote: ↑

Sun May 12, 2019 10:22 pm

Reading some of the posts here it’s safe to say most people here are taking WAY too long.

I wonder if many people would be interested if I offered a once off private neck carving workshop?

I'm all for that...as long as the fee includes beer and a barbeque

Thanks for the update Jon, put up some pics of that new shop when it's finished.

Duct Tape wrote: ↑

Wed May 15, 2019 8:12 am

I’m still here too, but have been building a new shop for the past year. Also been collecting some nice anz tonewood, including some gidgee I’m terrified to bend.

Jon

Yes blade will usually only tilt in one direction. I just flip the blank and run it through....you just have to make sure distance from side of neck block to cut is same. Martin, Thanks for the reply. Presumably you set the blade angle to plus and then minus 5 degrees - I see this OK, but how do you...

Trevor, Their Facebook page says FB page is unattended but people can email via orders@finetools.com.au The email address above is different from the one on their website...this may be the problem. Does anyone have a phone number for these guys (Melbourne based)? https://www.finetools.com.au/ They d...

Mitch, Cut the tenon cheeks square and then fine tune tenon width to get a good fit in the mortise first. Once you're happy with the fit you can work on the neck pitch angle by shaving meat off the cheeks. I use a chisel mortising plane (Veritas), block plane and finish off with a sanding block cut ...

Mitch I cut my neck tenons on the table saw. I cut the straight tenon side first by running the neck end through the blade with neck end sitting on the saw table and pressed hard against the fence. I then cut the angled cheeks by adjusting blade angle appropriately and then running the neck end over...

I should have added that I have a Veritas scraper plane but I hardly use the thing.....I picked up a 1930's vintage Millers Falls scraper plane at a tool sale a few years ago and before I bought my drum sander the Millers Falls was doing most of the work thinning sides.

I'm yet to hit a truss rod channel, nor has any student of mine. I suspect if you're hitting a channel your truss rods are massive or your necks are stupidly thin. :toi Or you're just not paying attention...happens to most of us at least once :mrgreen: OCD........in my case no, it's simply a case o...

Is the Veritas scraper plane a good substitute for a high angle smoothing plane? The scraper plane is good where you have difficult grain to deal with or youre removing minute amounts of material and you want a smooth surface straight off the plane. For working wood with grain that isn't rogue a hig...

From the abstract of one of the studies: "Six steel-string acoustic guitars were built for this study to the same design and material specifications except for the back/side plates which were made of woods varying widely in availability and price (Brazilian rosewood, Indian rosewood, mahogany, maple...

One thing to always keep in mind when neck shaping is the location and depth of the ^^%%$$$ng truss rod channel. Nothing worse than getting to the end of a days worth of neck shaping and then noticing what looks like a pin hole near the headstock that starts to rapidly get larger

Does the course cover tuning of planes Gore style?

I work slow..mainly because I'm totally anal and I'm not running a business. I start with facets drawn on the neck for the initial chisel work. I start with the chisel and mallet on the heel but as soon as I can switch to a curved scraper followed by a dragon rasp. On the neck shaft I start with a V...

I've got a shop overflowing with wood so no room for more but for any other members after some top wood get in before it goes.

Petecane wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 25, 2019 12:36 pm

I was just starting to get paranoid about lightness.

A perfect bridge would weigh nothing....it's there to anchor the strings and transmit string energy to the soundboard.

I avoid ebony bridges on my classicals. Rosewood is a better choice. I'm also building Gore style so the bridge is reinforced with carbon fibre which means you can use less dense woods with success. I am always reading various blogs about fitting a light bridge. Having lashed out on Koa for my Tenor...

Try bending some Australian blackwood with a bit of heat and moisture....and you'll see why it's called blackwood.

Petecane wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 11:37 am

Bunnings have 9.5mm hard wood rods and also the 9.5mm white rubber feet to match.
Why 9.5 instead of 10?...I cannot answer.
Anyway they work fine
Pete

9.5mm a closer match to 3/8" than 10mm.

I usually source the dowel from my local hardware shop but Mitre 10 and Bunnings have the same product.

blackalex1952 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 20, 2019 4:02 pm

Martin where did you get the hoop pine dowels from? Cheers! Ross