Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

I've done a guitar neck, back and side using PolyX 3043 (silk), following this advice [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzNxw4zmZuc[/youtube]
No pore fill, the thin stuff first, then the PolyX, 4 coats.

I've been adjusting bracing height after fully finishing my guitars through the soundhole (checking bridge rotation as I go) to obtain what sounds to me like a good balance between bass and trebles response, but it's A) really hard on the wrists and B) leaves bracing not as well shaped as I would li...

A thing of beauty and a joy to behold!!

Trevor, you did point this out recently on the OLF to me in reply to my query, my apology, got fixated on your first reference. Thanks for your patience. Average of 16 readings is working out at 11.1 Gpa, looks ballpark for this density Lutz, (which I thought was quite stiff originally) and was bake...

Soundboards - I set up a test rig using normal type supports /centre loading, used results to calculate Young's modulus, got 19000 for a density of 0.36, looks rubbish The formula I tried to use was on pg1-25 E = (P/A)/( dl / l ) where, and I can see this must be wrong because the thickness of the p...

Thanks for your input guys. Nice parlors!! Mine looks very plain in such company. Since my post, I've thinned the top to 2.0 mm at the bridge area and 1.8 mm round the lower bout (it's really stiff and quite heavy Eurospruce) and have fitted the neck to take a few taps I'm at 117, 227 and 262 Hz, an...

Got the box closed up on a parlour build and first indications are frequencies of 124, 249. and 265. No edge thinning has been done. Dimensions are 460 x 310 mm. Top is 2,4mm eurospruce with 6.5mm x 13mm scalloped X braces and back frequency could be taken up without too much trouble if necessary to...

I must be the odd man out. Admittedly I only use it for neck mortice/tenons a la "Book" but have found this works fine. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-morticing-attachment-prod22746/?searchfor=morticing%20attachment using these, which have a stepped clearance behind the sharp end. http://www.a...

Dominic, I hear what you as saying about hefty and low centre of gravity.
With my LN 62 I keep looking for excuses to use it, and am genuinely sorry to have to put it down.
Unless, that is, to pick up one of my LN block planes! (103 + 60 1/2)

Trevor, thanks for the clarification and the review of your use of planes, excellent, lots to digest there. I may take a road trip to one of my favorite suppliers to compare the Veritas and LN choices (and to pick up a large granite surface block - postage is not funny) Kim - HNT Gordon - really nic...

Not to disparage, but I would never use my jointer for thicknessing a back plate. Hand planer yes I would not even contemplate using an machine jointer/planer for back or top jointing. Veritas BU jointer and L-N 7 1/2 low angle jointer are both hand planes, and, as I remember, the Gore book specifi...

I don't have a my copy with me (working away from home)but I thought I remembered the Gore book recommending No 6 or 7 plane for backs??

I have been thinking to buy a plane for flattening/thicknessing especially back plates as per Gore/Gilet book. Looking at Veritas BU jointer and L-N 7 1/2 low angle jointer (with high bevel angle blade), and with all the tough woods down under, thought this may be a good place to ask if anyone has e...

Tod Gilding wrote: I don't have a long reach caliper to check the centre area yet:(

Easy/cheap to make your own long reach caliper.
$20 Dial gauge clamped in a hole in the end of an arm extended over a base with a bolt (dome/polish the head) fixed in the base.

There should be a wolf whistle Smilie!
Those are real nice.

Thanks guys. Todd, there is a clear pickguard fitted, I like them because they don't hide the wood. I can just see it in the first pic. Steve, I am paid too much. Otherwise how could I build guitars!! I got several tops, lowest grade, ("C-" at the time) from Martin Ghul http://www.best-eurospruce.co...

Thanks Todd. It sounds, well, like an OM ( I used the Kinkead book) I suppose, not to shabby. Reasonable for both pickin'n strumming. I'm not a great fan of light coloured guitars in general, but this Satinwood stuff is dense and stiff. The set rang about as good as the EIR i used for a build I did ...

Just thought I'd let you gays have a gander at my third build. OM, Satinwood/German Spruce with EIR binding and fingerboard, BRW bridge. Neck is Honduran Mahogany, Wenge veneer and (Rock?) Maple, salvaged from a bowling alley refurbishment. Finish Tru-oil. All woods and tuner colours were chosen by ...

I was there today, picked one up, then said naah can;t be much good at that price , put it down and moved on to the meat case. Rod. I have two of them bought 3 years apart. Still using the first, the other as a spare. Both used for rough work (removing chips in chisels, smoothing sides of chisels, ...

Following the method for bandsawing out the tenon as Trevor (and Gerard) show in the build book, I was able to cut in from both sides of it all the way to the cheeks instead of finishing the cut with a tenon saw. I only have a 250 mm "light trade" bandsaw, but by taking of some of the width of the n...

Just did this with the oven cleaner/nail brush/clean water rinse for the first time recently and 5 from 6 strips turned up virtually like new.

Ouch!
Thanks for the warning.

That saved me asking the same question, thank you gentlemen!

Wot! No Pics!!

Don't you dare bring Elvis Costello into this conversation!!