Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Thanks Mark.

Good result Wayne. That piece has bent really nice.
Wayne

Wayne i forgot to mention i thin my cutaway section down to around 1.7mm to 1.8mm slightly thinner than what you're thinking, but that's just me being cautious.
Wayne

Definitely use fabric softener on the cutaway side, i use it on all cutaway sides whatever timber I'm using. I've built one guitar with macassar ebony but it was years ago but I'm pretty sure i would've bent around 300f.
Wayne

Very nice Taffy. Great inlay.
Wayne

I got that from supercheap, they're a great little tool, about $17 when I bought it years ago. Comes with a heap of different sized bits. Wayne

Thanks Taffy.
Probably a little less volume than flat top uke but not a big difference in the sound. I've installed a pickup in it that I made from some piezo discs that ups the volume. Wayne

Thanks gaz.
I didn't make the purling I bought it off ebay. I do sometimes make my own but not this time.
Here's a better look at the head stock veneer, just after i made it. Wayne

Thanks guys.
Huon always smells nice. It's a carved back Mark.
Wayne

Thanks Martin.

Just finished this archtop baritone uke. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
Huon top
B/W back, sides, Bridge, tail piece and finger rest.
Eucalyptus finger board
Home made piezo p/up
Lacquer finish.
Wayne

Hi Malcolm.
This is just my thoughts, I think if you're going to build an archtop which is a lot of work it'd be wise to use something tried and tested. I'm not saying ngrw won't work but it's a gamble. Spruce, WRC, Australian Red cedar, all better options I think.
Wayne

Shellite is good for cleaning off sticky residue and won't damage the finish. I wouldn't use shellac from Bunnings it's pretty ordinary, plenty of places to order online, I've been getting mine from Restorers Choice it's good quality. Your decision. Wayne

Thanks Allen. That's good to know. Wayne

Very nice Allen. It's an interesting concept. What bracing did you use it? Wayne

Welcome to the forum Johnny, don't be scared to ask questions, remember there's no stupid questions. Wayne

I've sprayed lacquer over Angelus dyes a few times, i haven't worried about a sealer. Might pay to experiment on some scrap first and find out what works for you. Wayne

Have to agree with Martin, binding f holes is a real challenge especially if you're using timber you've done well to get them that nice,well done. Wayne

I mix mine in hot water, just a good splash in half a bucket full. I soak for about 25 minutes then bend while it's still wet, works for me. I've bent a gidgee cutaway side for a tenor uke with no problem. Wayne

I use earth choice fabric softener, I get it from woolies it's a pale blue colour and only costs a few dollars and it works well. Wayne

I’ve taken some photos of how I drill and install the neck bolts in my guitars, I hope I get them in order. I don’t use a jig my method is simple and I’ve used it on around 55 guitars with no problems. I will mention that when drilling the barrel nut holes in the tenon that it’s advisable to use a f...

I’m almost finished with the 12 string I’m building, for the neck bolts I’m using 6m barrel nuts and bolts. Wayne

I'm about 70% into a 12 string build at the moment, I've made my headstock thickness 11mm and I have a veneer on front and back which beefs it up to about 15mm. It also has a 15deg scarf joint.
Wayne

I don't get tear out Martin. You just need to make sure the under side of the tenon is on a block of timber. It really is a simple method it works well and it's cost affective, I just buy the bolts and nuts on eBay. I'll get some photos of how I do it. Wayne

I've been drilling mine with no jigs for about 14 years. I drill the neck block holes in the drill press when I make it. When the neck is ready to go on I put it in position and use a transfer punch through the sound hole into the holes in the neck block and mark the tenon, then I drill that with a ...