Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

sheet vinyl I had actually considered this, the only issue I can see, is the movement of heavy equipment will tear the vinyl, out floor is rated to 400kgs / sqm, and we are always shuffling things around. I need to sort a flooring out as I have a guillotine (1.6meter length) / pan brake (1.4meter) ...

Tod Gilding wrote:Steve, I covered my workshop floor with sawdust and wood off cuts

Ah huh , very good

Dont be sorry. I understand exactly where you are coming from. Your theory is sound and solid. The problem however is we are testing these scenarios with necks fitted, ive gone down the path previously trying to identify what acoustical effects can be measured, Ive made the same guitar out of craftw...

Hey folks, After some suggestions for a super cheap floor covering suitable for a metal work room The second story is floored with plain cheap high density chipboard (21 mm thick), the joins allow dust and crap to fall through and down below into the clean rooms woodwind and brass repairs. I need to...

To actually test this situation you will need to remove the neck from the equation completley as per attached picture. Then you are only testing the body, to find out if there is any ability for the body to influence a set of strings vibrating in a magnetic field, you will need to find out if that s...

Here we go................

Wooohoohaaa

Bodies .... Makes no difference,

Necks ..... Yes it does

Amazing what you find sometimes

Imagine taking it out of storage and start to play on it. They would be very angry wasps

Yes. I use the feast watson's myself

Nowadays, I use the cnc router, set it forget it, 10 minutes later finished. Man, modern technology is soooo sweet.

One of the things I find kim, because I have to turn busted instruments around quickly for stores, is theres really not enough time for the lacquer to cure, example, I have a acoustic in at the moment thats been dropped, its burst the side and crushed the back along the bottom, I have 5 working days...

I use a radius bit

My understanding is that we use a soldering iron to heat the wire and end cutters/pincers to remove the fret wire. I have a couple of questions though 1. Is there a certain type of wire we need to get for the replacement? 2. Do we need to glue the new ones in? 3. Do we cut them to length and bevel/...

Nick wrote: Hope you guys are still finding some interest in this thread!

Most definetly, have watched the progress here from the start with a very keen interest

Its just one of those things for me kim, buffing = heat, heat = possible damage and burning, so for me minimise heat by micro meshing and then light buff. Both methods work fine, one method merely reduces the risk of burning through the lacquer whilst buffing..

Is the shellac clear or tinted. You can add another coat and rub it on, it should fix it up okay unless its a tinted shellac mix. To remove I would use alcohol as well. You can spray a lacquer over the shellac if it is dewaxed, if its not you can do it as well but you need some silicon addiitves to ...

Matt Bach wrote:Sand blaster just sounds like fun!

Yes its different, but takes an ugly glued joint back to a perfect surface ready to be reglued and clamped

I cheat, I use a sand blaster, it removes all the traces of the old glue and lightly etches the new surface.

P3500 and that's pretty much finer than what you could abrade with the pad of your finger. It's also obscenely expensive. We only use that for the most fussy of surfaces prior to buffing. Those are the super hard clear coats we need to bring European luxury cars back to spec. Never in a million yea...

Cool, I clicked the first link, and it just identified 1200 grit, thought that was a bit average for micro mesh, didnt notice the second link, and thats identical to my stuff.

Follow up with a buffing pad fitted to a power buffer and some meguiars. Beautiful.....

That only goes to 1200 by the looks of it, I think my micro sand paper goes to 12000 grit, and that still leaves abrasive circular marks in the lacquer

I am so against gluing pickguards on, there is nothing wrong with double sided tape.

Protect your investment

Edit - Just noticed the dates of the posts, wow duhh, um yes just ignore me.

Neat idea, Ive actually got one simliar to stewmac where the bridge cawl is adjustable to apply fairly even pressure, but yours would definetly provide better all over pressure

Pegs look pretty big.

For problematic sitautions where the peg hole is so badly worn, I have discussed the option of whitmore pegs, these sit in a lot further and use a mechanical set of gears for tensioning, thereby eliminating the need for fine tuners.

Cool, 45-90 was the ball park range, stores supply me the pick guard material so no cost there on my behalf. If someone wanted a custom truss rod cover or a pick guard for an acoustic thats in the 45 range, 90 range is things like the fenders etc like this one shown in this scenario. Ideally my end ...

A bit of an unfruitful day, I had to machine up a sprung loaded pen holder for the cnc, so that way I can see what the job will look like on a piece of A3 paper. For sizing and correctness etc..Heres the little blighter, you wouldnt believe how long it took to make it. The top winds out from the bot...