Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Hi guys, finally got my OM-S strung up Still a bit of setup and finish repair etc to be done Neck is feeling a bit chunky and will be reworked Specs- Blackheart Sassafras B&S Lutz Spruce top Celery Top Pine Neck Cooktown Ironwood fretboard Tiger Myrtle bridge and binding Tru-oil finish Tried a few d...

One thing I would recommend if you use the tru-oil is their sealer and filler product especially if you are using it on a light colured wood like a spruce soundboard or on endgrain like a neckblock. without it the tru-oil may absorb unevenly in the endgrain and come out blotchy and dark (sanded off ...

You lucky duck Alan

bob wrote:C.F. Martin specify half an inch string height from the fingerboard for their guitars.

Gee Bob, I hope you mean 1/2" from the Soundboard, would hate to be playing with strings that high

Martin,
I think you must be applying too much of the amber lubricant
Sanding is best done dry.

Got sick of hand sanding the waist so-

A cheap 1/4 sheet sander with worn out pad
A piece of "pool snake" with a flat cut on it
Titebond to glue them together

- A dedicated waist sander


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With the cost of freight the way it is, I cannot see it being worth importing raw biletts.
By the time you reswed to tops and rejected/ trimmed you would probably have lost half the weight at least.
I would rather pay the guys at the source for their expertise in resawing.

Ok checked out the blade arrangement. This is how mine is setup( I think this is right, this was how i got it and it makes sense to me) With blade at top, from infeed side -slot face -bolt heads -plate -blade leading edge -blade trailing edge -slot face any further questions just ask Remembered I ha...

I have one of thes Matthew. I will go have a look at the blade arrangement Dont worry about the sliding fence, it is absolute rubbish, mounted on a single post free to rotate as soom as you apply pressure. Just use a masonite sheet with a runner against the side of rhe table for a crosscut fence and...

Jim Howell wrote:Thanks to all for being incredibly generous in posting this information. This has to be about the most informative and interesting thread I've read in quite a while. Wow! Lots of folks thinking outside the box.

Er Jim,
In our case should'nt that be "inside the Box"

Yes, I was in contact with him on Monday, he had got back last Saturday

Ok where did you get it, and How did you put it together
I have the same model shop vac
regards
Jeff

Hi Gregory, thanks for posting the African Blackwood pics.
I really like the look of both of them and I dig the knot style rosette.
I bet they smell great too AB has such a wonderful earthy smell.
Jeff

I would love to see the African Blackwood guitars. one day when I have a few builds under my belt and can afford it, I will do one. Have loved that wood since I built a flute from it a few years back. It is nice to see the fancy side bracing, just a nice surprise to see some detail on something whic...

What a lovely set of tiger myrtle, be great to see it with a finish. Beautiful construction too. the rosette is not to my taste, I guess I am too traditional of a mindset. I see you have used reverse kerf linings, this seems rare in classicals. Having used it on a few builds, I would not want to go ...

Lovely,
I really dig the idea of using such a great wood without much added decoration in a small package like this.
Sitting among a group of larger guitars, I am sure this is the one that would be picked up.

On of My favourite chapters in a book is the death scene in Peter Carey's "Bliss", where the main character at the end of his life leaves his body to merge with the universe surrounding him.

WOW
Simply stunning

Yes Craig if you have them offset like that it will be getting close to the back of the neck. I guess what I was wondering is why not put a strip centrally at the bottom of the truss rod channel.

This is something I am thinking through at the moment. It seem like a lot of the typical CF installations have the rods pretty well right on the neutral axis of the crossection. Seems it could be improved with a rod located near the back of the neck as well as just under the fingerboard. With reinfo...

If you are extensively heating the neck and fingerboard surfaces before using HHG then you are probably driving off enough mosture from the wood that the addition of moisture from the glue has no net effect.
Jeff

Depending on where you intended it to go, can you move the nut position up onto the sloping part of the headstock?

Colour is darker than WRC and it is a little softer, tends to have very tight rings. I supervised a job in the late 70's (Natural draft cooling tower at Wallerawang Power Station) where we imported large quantities to use as walkways due to it's superior durability in constant hot and wet conditions...

AFAIK, WRC has been imported since the early 1900's along with californian redwood and Douglas fir (oregon) Our lack of easy working and durable softwoods after the decimation of the Australian cedar forests led to this importation. So a good chance it is WRC A lot of WRC was used back in the 60's a...

It looks sad at 58