Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

good question :) I have followed my standard procedure for binding (with little variations according to the timber in use). Thickness 2.05mm, tape the binding strips and protect them with paper after wetting the wood (wet but not soaked) with a spray bottle containing tap water. I usually start bend...

Yes, plan B is for blackwood binding which bends nicely and will properly pair with the Jarrah back & sides

I had some strips of Louro Faia (kind of lacewood) and got the idea to use this timber to bind my next project. The result can be seen below: I thought was funny enough to deserve sharing... :D Another funny thing is that in the past I have built a Dread shape guitar with Louro Faia back & sides and...

I use a portable router table: https://www.rockler.com/trim-router-table with a Makita Rt701 laminate trimmer (1/4"). I do not have/do not feel the need of any other fixed router set-up. This was purchased online in Australia for something less than 100$ but I do not actually remember which website ...

I also have that Scheppach sander and for my limited usage I am happy with it and never had any problem

really beautiful work

very very beautiful work, thanks for sharing

Here the result with 1 layer of veneer .... can't say I am really proud of the binding job

Here how it looks after shaping the bevel. It doesn't looks pretty so I will glue on some padauk veneer.

Hi Mark, was a compromise to keep the headstock style of my 6 strings. I had no problem with the inversions 1/2 and 11/12.. I got used quickly. Cheers Valter.

Thanks for sharing Wayne
this is a very nice looking and sounding guitar. She probably deserve a name
Valter

Hi All, this is my first 12 strings completed in 2018. Some general information below: Type : Dread like shape with deeper body and cutaway Top : QSL Kauri Back & Sides : Tasmanian Myrtle Neck : Mahogany Fretboard & Bridge : Ebony, width at nut 49mm Strings : M200 Martin silk & Steel, ½” step down t...

sometimes I am stubborn but it didn't feel right to waste a so nice maple set, so here the solution I adopted which consists on a cross between Florentine & Venetian cut-away

Rest bevel block glued in place and shaped.

This an OM style completed in 2017. Some general information below: Type : OM like shape Top : Italian alpine spruce (Abete della val di Fiemme) Back & Sides : Amaranth (Purpleheart) Neck : Cedrela Fretboard & Bridge : Leopard Ebony (not much of a leopardy figure 😊), width at nut 47mm with 57mm e to...

This a dread style completed in 2017. Some general information below: Type : Dread like shape Top : Red Cedar Back & Sides : Brazilian Louro Faia Neck : Mahogany Fretboard & Bridge : Hard Maple, width at nut 46mm with 56mm e to E at the bridge Strings : Ziko Silver plated phosphor/bronze - 11 gauge....

Here the laminated block solid and very light.

A camera with motion detection and a jpg of wife would do the job

Hi All, I do not control humidity in the working area but I have a humidity controlled wood storage room (about 2x 3.5m). My shop (a garage actually) is nearby the ocean , generally quite humid but variable (from 45 to 85%) according to the wind direction, a couple of times I have seen the hygromete...

Hi guys, thanks for all the suggestions. It is difficult to give up to a nice (and costly) piece of timber like that but will follow your suggestions and use my time to something more productive. Cheers

Thanks Allen, the idea is to leave the laminate as is but with the plan B of covering it with a veneer in case it won’t look nice. This is just an idea (from someone who has limited experience) to use the scrap pieces laying around. Anyhow I agree with you, a better solution is probably to start wit...

I was planning to use titebond but I have considered the use of a 5 min epoxy. I do not have any experience with hide glue, except the bottled one which I do not think is a good idea anyhow. Thanks for the suggestion, I will use the epoxy, it dries faster and will allow gluing 2 or 3 strips at the t...

Sorry , I have just realised that I have missed some vital information: I use a blanket on a bending form and, when required, I retouch the side by means of a bending iron using a stainless support strap. This crack has shown-up out just out of the bending form. In the past (few) cases bending cutaw...

Hi All, In the attached pic my idea of how to prepare a laminated stock for the armrest. This idea uses all the cuttings from back & top plates, bend them (you can bend 4 strips at the time) and glue them stacked until the desired depth is achieved. Using mostly the top material will reduce the over...

Hi All, this is the first time I have tried to bend a maple cutaway side. Result in the pic below :-( Not sure what I have done wrong, I have used the same method I have used for other woods like Blackwood, Lacewood, Myrtle, Purpleheart and Rosewood. the only difference with Maple is that I have thi...