Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

for what it is worth i went for the transtints which are relabeled by stewmac as colortone stains i decided to buy the 3 primaries and black which should get me any of the fancy tones like vintage amber, cherry red etc i paid us$ $15.70 per bottle +US$56 for usps priority intnl. freight inc insuranc...

looking at importing dyes from OS and considering Transtints, LMI concentrates or aniline alcohol soluble the concentrates are quite a bit cheaper and the dyes look very attractive price wise any have advice on which yields the best results ? or what do you use? i have a basic understanding of colou...

i am familiar with u-beaut and have a collection of their water base dyes which are excellent doubt they would mix with lacquer very well also in response to nick's post - yes there is always stewmac - i am resisting the temptation to buy their stains - there is enough woodcraft going on in australi...

yep sunburst would be the way to go
i would use a tobacco sunburst as it is quite dark and opaque at the edge
not how you pictured things i know but less obvious than a fake knot - unless you are very handy with a brush

several of my favorite F&W prooftint stains are just not on the shelves any more the range of colours has shrunk to 10 or so generic rather drab looking colours pity anyone one who wants to mix up their own colour brew which was quite possible with the old range of stain colours eg there used to be ...

polyester is a very tough finish - i doubt spraying lacquer over it will touch it
if it were me i would not hesitate once i had roughed up the existing finish

any body using one of these?
they make quite few different sizes

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281344351499 ... 1423.l2649

thinking to get one and was hoping for a recommendation or a thumbs down

hmm i would like one of those rasps - what is it called? where do you get em?

bought a tin of 3220 satin plus thinners effectively 8 litres of finish initial trial spraying a few headstock decals in reveals it be quite glossy - i had hoped for it be midway in reflectivity between matt and high gloss apart from that i was pleased with the build, rapidity of drying, sanding etc...

thanks allen i have read your articles with interest
first time using 3220 -

have heard discussions ssaying you should use the mirotone thinners to clean up the gun after using mirocat 3220 any truth to this? or can i use diggers general purpose lacquer thinners which is a bit cheaper bought a tin of 3220 and Mt thinners yesterday - running some trials to see how it goes tha...

any one using used durobond lacquers??

looking at trying out some of the mirotone lacquers
sealer, pigmented and top coats in satin and gloss
what is the one to use?

mine seems to move a lot of paint - not sure what the tip size is but a quick measure with the caliper gives me around 1.7 mm - 2mm maybe that is my problem - the tip is too big - i need to get the pressure up a ways before it starts to suck by the time i buy a needle, cap and nozzle i am up for clo...

looking to purchase a new spraygun - i have a star s-770 which is very good but way too big for spraying a single guitar - quite a large amount of finish needs to be available for it to work - i have a cheap touch up gun which is about the right scale but lacks the controls of big bro it has a top t...

yesterday i struggled around a rimu solid body with the jet 14" in my workshop - the whole time i was saying in my head "wasted your money on those crappy guides" - bought a set of those composite square things that sit either side of the blade and get chewed up every time they have to do some work ...

anybody used this stuff?

http://luthierssupplies.com.au/product_ ... ts_id=1316

shifted into the office where i have a small aircon - lucky i had a few setups to do
the workshop here [near the dandenongs melb] got to 37 on the the hottest days so really just out of working range
i generally knock off after 35 and move to cooler areas

how does the stewmac wire stack up?

need to buy some more medium fretwire as i just run out of the stewmac wide high
found it to be pretty good to work with and holds up ok over time

looking at either more from them or trying jescar

any one care to share what NS fretwire they are using?

simso wrote:Thanks,

Sounds easy enough

Steve.

pm sent

a netizen called by my place today asking about having her 100 year old mandolin restored
who would be the luthier in perth that would be able to take it on??

sounds like a cracked or broken headstock plus some other issues

the last of the 3rd is still uncarved but fretted - i am thinking that i should clamp it up to introduce a bit of backbow before i carve it - i have one slotted board left that i will toss - just not worth the fiddle in my estimation

thanks for the info

i have built 3 necks using this stuff and had problems with the first two - the 3rd is as yet unfretted and uncut both finished necks have exhibited back bow after fretting - luckily the biflex truss rod installed in both bought them back to straight have fretted any number of other necks and not se...

wondering whether it is more advantageous to cut the fingerboard radius before or after the back profile is cut 3 neck builds ago i had one come up with back-bow which was corrected just fine with the biflex trussrod but it didnt make me happy first time that happened using my usual method of gluing...