Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Hi Allan,

Looks really good!
What are you going to use for benchtops?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Perry, You said "Bunnings have 33mm round edge, 1800mm long bench sections on sale at the moment. We're $35 each, currently $7 each." - do you know what Bunnings calls them? I had a quick look and can't find those panels on special - I could do with another bench! (My local Bunnings is Lismore, n...

Hi Steve,

That's why I had moveable frets - so I could set it to any scalelength - from tenor uke to bass guitar (and beyond). (Have a look at the link and you'll see the moveable frets). Your idea of scalelength templates would make it quicker for "standard" scalelengths, though!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Steve,

Perhaps you're thinking of me? I built a jig with adjustable "bridges" at both ends of a neck (ie nut and bridge ends) - also with moveable frets (viewtopic.php?f=24&t=6406&p=72363#p72363). But I'm so slack that I haven't used it yet!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Jim,

PM received!
Email sent!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Jim, The "faceplate" is just inkjet printed onto glossy paper, from a CorelDraw file. It's definitely not roadworthy (the same as the head cabinet and the speaker box), but it's fine for sitting in my lounge room! I haven't seen any email from you. I tried sending a test message using the "Send e...

Thanks, Jim!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Jim,

Do you have any contact info for the old/new Rola 12PEG? I might be interested in getting one.
Also, I'd be interested in the mods for the 5E3, if you don't mind. Mine sounds good when driven but very loud!

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Jim,

That's great!
The amp above is also a 5E3 clone (all valve) that I made, sourced from Evatco (great Aussie amp parts supplier), all point-to-point wired.
However, I didn't make a cool logo, nor do I have a cool Rola speaker! (Rola is highly regarded old Aussie speaker)

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi,

Another beauty, Allen! The body shape you have evolved is very elegant!
What woods did you use in the rosette?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi,

Looks great Wayne!
I did something similar, using Australian Red Cedar. I made the amp, and matching speaker box.
Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Martin,

Looks great!
Is that Ebony bridge?
Is that Gidgee tailpiece?
How did you handle the "wraparound" tailpiece extension to the endpin? Is it glued to the underside of the tailpiece?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Allen, Beautiful! Just beautiful! Could I ask a few questions? How does the Huon sound? I used it on a uke and at first it sounded like wet cardboard, but when braced and on the uke, it sounds OK to me. What is the headstock veneer? (Looks like it could be either Blackwood or Koa - they're both A...

Hi Wayne,

That looks great! Well done!
A few questions, if I may:
1) How was the gidgee to work with (especially bending);
2) what is the finish?
3) you said "quite loud and has a really nice tone" - how do you think having no soundhole but instead a soundport has influenced this?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Jeff, Have you looked here at oversized bridge pin set - ebony: http://www.realparts.com.au/bridge-parts/bridge-pins/oversize-acoustic-bridge-pin-set-ebony.html or maybe 3 sets of the black plastic acoustic bass bridge pins (=12 pins=2 guitar sets): http://www.realparts.com.au/bridge-parts/bridge...

Thanks for the great description of your procedure, John!
Did you find much seep-through of the Naptha, that had to be filled with CA?
(I assume 300 degrees is Fahrenheit?)

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Graham,

Thanks for that!
How did you find the Red Cedar? I made a tenor uke (much less skillfully than you!) with Australian Red Cedar back and sides and found it to be a good wood to work with.

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Graham,

Wow, that looks great!
Could you please give a few more details, like top wood, neck wood, fretboard wood, bindings, finish?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the info and the links! I found an old "ANZLF Adjustable Neck Joint" discussion (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=474) but hadn't found the others.

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Mark,

Could you possibly show more pics of the butt joint neck join? Especially the headblock. I like the idea of a simple neck joint, and a neck joint that doesn't use glue (I expect that would make for easier neck resets down the track).

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Allen,

Fantastic, as usual. That curly Mahogany looks beautiful! What's it like to work?

Thanks,
GregL.

Hi Martin, I found it possible to bend curly blackwood bindings to approx 50mm radius bend, on an iron without using a backing slat - about 200C taking it really slowly. Bent even better after soaking in fabric softener - I also tried veneer softener, but it seemed the results were no better than fa...

Hi, Next test: I tried wrapping the silver ash binding in blue painters tape, as previously suggested by Bob. And, in true non-scientific fashion, I changed the testing method! This time I wrapped the binding in blue painters tape then tried to bend it on a form using a heat blanket and metal backin...

Hi Tim, Just a question which might have already been addressed. Did you support your bindings with a slat at least on the outside? How long did you wait before bending and how much moisture in any form did you apply? Tim As Martin said, no outside slat used (so far). I bent immediately after I remo...

Hi Martin,

I have not been using any slat when hand bending. I have 2 stainless steel slats that I "sandwich" wood between when using a heat blanket on a form, also have a roll of aluminium flashing I have used, but nothing for hand bending - I'll try that too. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks,
GregL.