Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

Thanks, Matt. I had my suspicions about the handle. I'll have another go and see if I can get the plastic covers off the handle mountings. I've had a go already. The plastic covers seem to snap on in someway, with no obvious ways to snap them off, without literally doing that. Any hints greatly appr...

Thanks for the input, gents. So far, I've not had any adhesion issues, just "bloom" when I once used WEST with 206 hardener. A discussion with WEST and a change to 207 hardener fixed things. WEST pretty well guarantee that the coating will stay clear if 207 is used (and that's been my experience), b...

Does anyone know for sure that Zpoxy doesn't bloom down the track? I've never used it, so don't have a packet/instructions to read. It may be on the pack or you may need to contact the manufacturer. So many people seem to be using it and I'd hate to see a whole generation of white guitars in a few y...

Yes, I use 60. And you're right, it was to differentiate from the super-thin lattice tops.

The torque on a classical bridge is typically 50% of that of a SS bridge (due to lesser string height above the top and lower tension). That's in the book (somewhere!). You hear modal frequencies but you see static bridge rotations, so that should help you prioritise matters. Static deflections are ...

Brian's methods work well for him, so no real problem there. Don't underestimate the amount of time it takes, though. Regarding the effect of the bridge, see Fig 4.6-3. The dispersion bars are +/- 1 s.d., so as you can see, the effect of the bridge on classicals with primarily longitudinal style bra...

Jeff, as you know, there is no easy way of predicting a top frequency for an untried design because of all the many things that couple in and influence it. And, as I’ve found with students, it depends on the workmanship, too. Remember, most people can't predict a top frequency for a tried and truste...

The radiata top is for a steel string guitar on a classical body shape. The falcate braces pass between the bridge pins. The easiest way to make sure that they do is to drill four of the bridge pin holes first and then make sure the braces pass between as you glue them down. This obviously has knock...

It's not adding height to get the same stiffness that's the issue. It's the extra bulk additional to that that's needed (IMO) to reduce the creep. X-bracing of typical dimensions (significantly larger than I use for CF/falcate bracing) still creeps.

Yes, it is.

Sounds like you should be starting a "wanted for Christmas" list and leaving it in easy to find places!

No. I haven't. But I think there might be others who have. With the CF I'm just about as close to the edge as I want to be. If you go without the CF, you'd want a deal more wood in the bracing to better resist long term creep, then the braces are stiffer, monopole mobility decreases etc. etc. and it...

Yes, and yes. Still trying to figure out if it makes any significant difference.

The bracing on this one is 8 high. The radiata is quite dense and low stiffness compared to the spruces, cedars, redwoods etc. so I thinned the top more than usual to drop a bit of mass and upped the brace height to gain a bit of stiffness with a view to getting back into the "normal" zone. It taps ...

Oh, and here's that bracing...

Yep. The falcate bracing is of Oregon pine (great minds think alike [or is it fools seldom differ?]). The Oregon came from the (already second hand) door to the outside dunny. The rest of the dunny just sorta caved in. (Obviously not brick!). It took some pretty oblique sawing to get it on the quart...

OK. Thanks guys. Lets try again: DSCF1333s.jpg Turned out that the file was the wrong pixel dimensions (but within the kByte limit). More pyjama grade Pinus Radiata . This is a five piece top. There's a story behind the rest of the guitar (I'll put some more pics up later). When I moved into "The Sh...

That's just one step away...!

Radical like the pic I can't upload!! Any advice greatly appreciated!!

You mean radical like this?

I came upon one of these (Behringer Acoustic Amp ACX1800, http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/ACX1800.aspx ) the other day - not bad for the bucks. The intention was to try out a whole stack of ideas regarding acoustic sound reinforcement by wiring different stuff (speakers, EQ, sensors, etc.) in. ...

Hi Dom, Hey everyone, not having any trouble collecting data but I always seem to get a much higher body resonance than the main in my charts. That is T(1,1)1 is the highest peak by about 20%......I sit with the guitar soundhole level with the mic and about 30cm away. Yep, that's typical of what you...

Clancy, sorry to hear about that. I hate it too, if I damage a valued tool. A couple of points which might help you and others avoid this: Whilst quite a few texts/teachers recommend it, I would avoid planing on a skew (which you might be doing looking at the pic you posted). Whilst I haven't checke...

I've heard of Far North makers having trouble with Titebond, though I don't know any specifics. It's probably to do with heat and damp (humidity). So one story went, the fix was to use LMII white glue, which holds its strength higher up the heat/humidity curve, with the down side, of course, that it...

Ro,

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If you make a joint with resin as I suggest in the book (say spruce to spruce or spruce to king billy) then take the joint apart before it sets up, the joint always looks amazingly dry. But if you use Titebond on a spruce to spruce joint, clamp it up, then dismantle it (you have to be quick!!) you a...