Neck Joint Jig

[Lillian]

Okay, the templates from StewMac have arrived, so tomorrow I finish putting the neck jig together. I think I have worked everything out except how to get the truss rod spacer at 90 to the template. I don't have a large square. A plumb bob won't either. I'm open to suggestions.


As for my tortoise pace of late, DeQuervain's is the reason. I started life as a lefty. Converted over to the other side after an unfortunate accident as I was learning how to write. Things are starting to looking like I will be returning to being a lefty. Life is anything but boring.

[John Steele]

Lillian;
As a 'rightie" I can't say this is the right side, but welcome to this side either way.
I looked at the Stew-Mac templates trying to understand your problem. You have the templates that use a router/pattern bit???
Since you are using a square I 'm guessing you consider one side of your neck stock square and true? My 1st thought is using a measurement off that side to determine the truss rod slot? The other thing is to flip the square 180 to check your line. like. even if you have a std 12" squrae, your off set (if any) will show. But Honestly, I am not 100% sure what you are asking. Hope this helps
J

[Rod True]

Do you have a draftsman triangle?



Use that as a square.

Assuming you're making one of these



Mark the center of the templete along the inside edge of the horizontal plate, you can than use the triangle to transfer the line to the intersection of the two plates. Butt the triangle to the underside of the top plate (horizontal plate) while placing the face of the triangle (not the edge) along the vertical plate. Now draw the vertical centerline of the jig where the center line of your neck is going to go.

I don't know what you plan on using to allign your neck but I use 1/4" dowels. This way, I can do a couple of test pieces. I drill for my dowels, cut a test piece to make sure I'm spot on center of the templete, if I need to move it over a bit, I can just drill slightly lower from each original dowel point. Use two dowels of course, one near the nut and one near the 14th fret.

Don't know if your jig allows for the neck set (Woolson Style neck jig) or if it's just a 90* angle to the templete. If it's 90* here's a little tip. Glue the headplate on first (assuming it's about 1/16" thick) and cut the nut end so it's ready to receive the nut (or fretboard end, depending on nut style, Gibson or Martin). When you clamp the neck to the jig, you will have just about the right amount of set in the neck when you route the tenon. That way you won't have much finiting to do when you're ready to get your neck angle set, you should be pretty close.

[Lillian]

Thanks Rod for understanding what I meant to say. It was a miserable 4 hr commute home last night. I don't have a large drafting T, but I know where I can get one. Dowels will be perfect. Thanks.

John, thank you. Righties are definitely the majority. It'll be interesting going back to being a leftie after all these years. But it beats having the tendon cut like my sister did.

[Allen]

Thanks Rod for understanding what I meant to say. It was a miserable 4 hr commute home last night.

And I bitch about it taking 10 minutes.

[Lillian]

Yeah, well, one of these days things will turn around and we can move or I can find a position closer to where we live that will give Fran insurance. In the mean time, its usually only 2 hours at night.

[Lillian]

Question for the users of such jig.

What means do you use to set the gap at the bridge? Do you just measure it or do you use some sort of mechanical stop?

Its basically done. I just need to figure out the arm portion. I have a piece of 1.25" aluminum angle, but I'm not dead set on using it.

[Rod True]

I used aluminum angle instead of channel Lillian. It works just fine with a piece of angle instead. Just drill and tap the angle, or epoxy a nut over the hole. Really though, when setting the neck you want the body geometry to be right for the neck set so the angle at the front of the body should be such that you get the proper clearance between the plane of the neck and the saddle location. All to get an optimum 1/2" between the strings and the top of the sound board.

[Lillian]

Thanks Rod. I'll dig out the tap set tonight when I get home.

[jeffhigh]

Lillian,
If you are ever stuck for a square in some unusual size or configuration, Just use a sheet of paper folded back on itself across one side.
Always gives 90 degrees.

[Lillian]

Doh! You are so right Jeff.