Member Intro and a couple of questions.

[Kim]

Peter from RC has been very good about the split sides. I am now really happy that I went with a sponsor

All businesses have a hiccup now and then but its how they deal with it that separates the good from the bad. Bob and Pete at RC Tonewoods have an impeccable record when it comes to putting things right.

Thanks for the heads up Jeremy

Cheers

Kim

[Jeremy D]

Exactly,

I have been nothing but happy with the way Peter has delt with my enquires, great business to deal with.

Peter from RC has been very good about the split sides. I am now really happy that I went with a sponsor

All businesses have a hiccup now and then but its how they deal with it that separates the good from the bad. Bob and Pete at RC Tonewoods have an impeccable record when it comes to putting things right.

Thanks for the heads up Jeremy

Cheers

Kim

[liam_fnq]

I'll add that I've bought through RC tonewoods a number of times and the service is impeccable. Five star service

[ozziebluesman]

Yep, I have also bought from Bob at RC Tonewoods before and the service and material is first class all the way.

Cheers

Alan

[kiwigeo]

Some businesses let you return bad wood...and replace it with even worse wood. Some of these businesses are endorsed by well known luthiers....who dont get alot of respect from me.

[Kim]

Yes that is true Marty however such an operation would never be invited to be an ANZLF preferred vendor now would they.

Must be clear here that you are not suggesting RC Tonewoods would do such a thing. After all they are the only business named in this thread so far and if one did not know better because they were new to lutherie, one could easily assume your comment could be directed at Bob and Pete.

Cheers

Kim

[Jeremy D]

I am super excited, today I officially started my first build! Although I haven't yet touched the guitar wood with saw or chisel I finished the Cumpiano style work-board and template. Now I am ready to move onto the neck!!

I have a crappy ryobi 9" Jigsaw that I picked up for 60 bucks, I did a bit of cutting with it today and its not too bad for what it is. Do you think I should attempt to cut the scarf joint with a jig on this or use a back saw and do it by hand?

[kiwigeo]

Yes that is true Marty however such an operation would never be invited to be an ANZLF preferred vendor now would they.

Must be clear here that you are not suggesting RC Tonewoods would do such a thing. After all they are the only business named in this thread so far and if one did not know better because they were new to lutherie, one could easily assume your comment could be directed at Bob and Pete.

Cheers

Kim

No, my comments definitely not directed at Bob and Pete. My post was intended as a warning to those people considering sourcing their tonewood from merchants without first seeking out advice on same from myself and other members who may have had experiences with the same merchant. My post was also intended to make the point that even if a well known luthier endorses a tonewood supplier it doesn't necessarily mean that amateurs like myself are going to get the same level of service as Mister Wellknown Luthier receives.

Bottom line.....if you deal with ANZLF endorsed suppliers then the chances of you being stiffed up are zilch.

[kiwigeo]

I have a crappy ryobi 9" Jigsaw that I picked up for 60 bucks, I did a bit of cutting with it today and its not too bad for what it is. Do you think I should attempt to cut the scarf joint with a jig on this or use a back saw and do it by hand?

Backsaw will give a straighter cut than a jig saw IMHO. I do mine by hand....youre going to have to clean up the joint with a block plane regardless of how you do the intial cut.

[kiwigeo]

I have a crappy ryobi 9" Jigsaw that I picked up for 60 bucks, I did a bit of cutting with it today and its not too bad for what it is. Do you think I should attempt to cut the scarf joint with a jig on this or use a back saw and do it by hand?

The only use my jigsaw gets is rough cutting MDF for my workboards

[seeaxe]

Hi Jeremy - I recognise that feeling!

A good scarf joint is all about your hand plane - you wont be gluing the sawn faces together so it doesnt matter whather you cut it with the bandsaw or by hand.

(btw, while the bandsaw may be small, they are still very versatile tools - but are only as good as the blade in it. keep it sharp or the little motor will struggle)

It might be in Cumpiano, not sure, but I recommend you find a very straight piece of 100 by 50 clear and dressed, (my piece is pine) about 1 to 1.2m long. Clamp it in your vice so you can get at it.

When you have cut your scarf joint, turn the short piece over and lay it on top of the neck, so the scarfs "line up". Place this right at the end of the 100 x 50 and clamp it down - you can make a simple saddle clamp with two bits of 50 x 20, some 6mm threaded rod and some wing nuts. Its good if the headstock can be cut as long as you can afford, so there is room for the clamp without getting in the way of the plane

You can then plane your scarf joint with ease. My 100 x 50 has the end bevelled at 15 degrees now, its done a few necks. The 100 x 50 is then used to lay up all the bits and clamp them down so they cannot move when the scarf is clamp across the joint.

I'm not sure why, but I really enjoy this bit!

Good luck with build - and don't forget to post some pictures, we will all be interested.
Cheers

Richard

[Jeremy D]

Thanks for the great tips guys. I think I might do this by hand as you suggest.

Richard thanks alot for the info. It sounds a lot like what is in Cumpianos book but its great to get validation and a slightly different perspective on things. I will definitely post pictures. I can see myself wearing down you guys with info, so tell me to buzz off if I ask to many questions

[Lillian]

I have to agree with Richard. If you haven't really used a plane before, have a go at the neck with practice wood first. Your plane needs to be sharp, shaving sharp before you start this. After you get the head stock glued up, don't toss it. Use it to walk through the other bits of making the neck.

[liam_fnq]

No plane for me. I use a linishing belt sander so clean up the scarf joint face. Works fine.

[Allen]

I just depends how good your blade and saw are as to whether you can glue up without sanding or planing.

This batch of necks has the scarf joint just off of the saw. All put together with HHG.

[liam_fnq]

What sort of timber are those necks Allen?

[DarwinStrings]

My vote is with the back saw not the jig saw and I think it is a good idea to at least do your first scarf with a block plane, after you get that right then any method that works is good but learning to get that scarf right with a block plane is good apprenticeship stuff. Cumpiano gives a good detailed description to get that join right with a block plane if my memory is working well.

My guess is you cut those joints with your table saw Allen to get a descent joint, is that correct?

Jim

[charangohabsburg]

I have done my first neck scarf with a big hand saw and a little cleanup with a hand plane.


The picture sequence of this cut starts here (Charango build).

I went very slowly and carefully. The cut took me something like 15 minutes or so. After that only cleanup was necessary, no correction of tilted or twisted cut.

[seeaxe]

I just depends how good your blade and saw are as to whether you can glue up without sanding or planing.

This batch of necks has the scarf joint just off of the saw. All put together with HHG.

I stand corrected and impressed, thats a lot of necks!!!
Presumably thats ukery neckery?

Richard

[driver2xx]

hi BBK,
i live in brisbane if you need some info there may something i can help you with
ken

[Allen]

What sort of timber are those necks Allen?

New Guinea Rosewood Liam. They're the batch for the Cairns Uke Festival. I've got 2 bodies closed up and waiting for some stuff sent up from Micheal to finish them off.

I also have a bunch of video footage and photo's to put together so people can see some of what it takes to make large pieces of timber into shavings and little pieces of timber.

[Jeremy D]

Wow I just got back to this thread, fantastic info. I will go down the back saw, block plane route first as this is a big learning experience and I want to get the most from it, especially when it comes to hand tools. If it cant get it right with the block plane I will turn to the belt sander.

Thanks so much everyone.

I have to agree with Richard. If you haven't really used a plane before, have a go at the neck with practice wood first. Your plane needs to be sharp, shaving sharp before you start this. After you get the head stock glued up, don't toss it. Use it to walk through the other bits of making the neck.

No plane for me. I use a linishing belt sander so clean up the scarf joint face. Works fine.

I just depends how good your blade and saw are as to whether you can glue up without sanding or planing.

This batch of necks has the scarf joint just off of the saw. All put together with HHG.

My vote is with the back saw not the jig saw and I think it is a good idea to at least do your first scarf with a block plane, after you get that right then any method that works is good but learning to get that scarf right with a block plane is good apprenticeship stuff. Cumpiano gives a good detailed description to get that join right with a block plane if my memory is working well.

My guess is you cut those joints with your table saw Allen to get a descent joint, is that correct?

Jim

I have done my first neck scarf with a big hand saw and a little cleanup with a hand plane.


The picture sequence of this cut starts here (Charango build).

I went very slowly and carefully. The cut took me something like 15 minutes or so. After that only cleanup was necessary, no correction of tilted or twisted cut.

[Jeremy D]

hi BBK,
i live in brisbane if you need some info there may something i can help you with
ken

Sending PM

[Jeremy D]

Hi guys,

I am just about to make this cut. I have a quick (stupid) Question. The blanks I have are about 25mm thick. Cumpiano's book calls for max 3/4 inch (approx 19mm). Do I need to somehow thickness this before I get started or does it just mean that I will have more work cut out for myself when I start to shape the neck?

Also on a side note, I was given a Record 52p wordworking vice that is in ok condition. I cleaned it up a bit with a wire brush on a drill. If anyone here would like to pick it up from parkwood gold coast they are welcome to it.

Thank heaps

[kiwigeo]

Leave the blank at 25mm and work to final thickness when you shape the neck.