NUMBERS 7, 8, and 9
- Ron Wisdom
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NUMBERS 7, 8, and 9
Well, the photos aren't very good, but here's what I've been up to for the past 8 months.
Nearly twin OM cutaways of EIR with German spruce tops and curly maple binding. One neck is mahogany with two strips of walnut but it doesn't show up in the photo. The other neck is walnut with a wide strip of birds-eye maple. Both also have K&K mini pickups installed. They sound great with and without the amp. This was my first attempt at a cutaway. Both are gifts for former students.
The dread is claro walnut with a sitka bearclaw top and curly maple binding. It is a gift for my brother in law.
Ron
Nearly twin OM cutaways of EIR with German spruce tops and curly maple binding. One neck is mahogany with two strips of walnut but it doesn't show up in the photo. The other neck is walnut with a wide strip of birds-eye maple. Both also have K&K mini pickups installed. They sound great with and without the amp. This was my first attempt at a cutaway. Both are gifts for former students.
The dread is claro walnut with a sitka bearclaw top and curly maple binding. It is a gift for my brother in law.
Ron
Ron, you've been holding out on us. Those look great.
How did you find doing your first cutaways? They look very well done. A nice balanced shape, and that Dread is just stunning.
What do you think of German Spruce. I've got a OOO and OM to build with it at the moment, and have never used it before.
Very lucky students and brother in-law.
How did you find doing your first cutaways? They look very well done. A nice balanced shape, and that Dread is just stunning.
What do you think of German Spruce. I've got a OOO and OM to build with it at the moment, and have never used it before.
Very lucky students and brother in-law.
- Ron Wisdom
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- Location: Arkansas, USA
Thanks, guys. I'm glad to be finished with this lot. Three at a time is too much when there is a deadline (graduation).
Allen, the cutaways came out really nice, but it was a lot of work cause I had to build a new bending form and make an insert for my OM mold. I won't do another, though, unless it is a paying customer.
The German spruce is nice. It and lutz both seem quite a bit softer than sitka, although they are stiff and sound good. I prefer working with sitka.
Ron
Allen, the cutaways came out really nice, but it was a lot of work cause I had to build a new bending form and make an insert for my OM mold. I won't do another, though, unless it is a paying customer.
The German spruce is nice. It and lutz both seem quite a bit softer than sitka, although they are stiff and sound good. I prefer working with sitka.
Ron
- Stephen Kinnaird
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Hey, hey, HEY! My kinda guy!Ron Wisdom wrote:
The German spruce is nice. It and lutz both seem quite a bit softer than sitka, although they are stiff and sound good. I prefer working with sitka.
Ron
Glad someone else likes the lowly Sitka.
Ron those look just great. Nice looking cutaways, and I love that Claro.
If this is how you typically treat students, could I come study with you for awhile?
Steve
There are some great woods, down under!
- ozziebluesman
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- Nick
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Nice job Ron. The dread has some lovely timber combinations. The Claro and Bearclaw just wonderful, not a dready fan but I'd be pleased as punch to own one as good looking as that. Great looking cutaways too and well done on tackling 3 guitars at once.
I'm with you & Steve with the Sitka too
I'm with you & Steve with the Sitka too
"Jesus Loves You."
Nice to hear in church but not in a Mexican prison.
Nice to hear in church but not in a Mexican prison.
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I'll second that Ron . In fact , a bit of an understatement It always amazes me how little some charge to upgrade to a cutaway.Ron Wisdom wrote: the cutaways came out really nice, but it was a lot of work
Ron
You should be very proud of this trio Ron . They all represent superb craftsmanship. Three at a time would be too much for me to handle also. Man that's a lot of time and effort , but well worth it when you end up with these three beauties .
The finish is impressive too. What is it ? . I'm not normally a fan on scratch plates , but yours really suit these guitars. Where are they from ?
You say the O M's are almost twins , but do they sound the same ?
Beautiful work Ron.
Craig Lawrence
- Ron Wisdom
- Blackwood
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- Location: Arkansas, USA
Thank you all, fellows. It's nice to see all those clapping hands. (and the Sergeicons, Hesh)
Steve, you're welcome to come to my class. I teach honors algebra II, but if all goes well, one more year will be it. It will be my 40th year. Man I've been in school since I was 6 years old.
Craig, the finish is tru-oil. The pick guards all came from LMI. The dread is just one of the cheapo things, but the OM's are the very expensive tor-tis. I would have used a cheapo for the OMs if they had the right size in that material.
Hard to describe the sound, as I only strung them up today. I really can't tell any difference in the sound quality of them, but one "seems" a tad louder than the other.
Also, I don't think I mentioned that the neck on the dread is cherry. I really love the feel of the cherry neck, no pores and it finished as smooth as a baby's butt.
Ron
Steve, you're welcome to come to my class. I teach honors algebra II, but if all goes well, one more year will be it. It will be my 40th year. Man I've been in school since I was 6 years old.
Craig, the finish is tru-oil. The pick guards all came from LMI. The dread is just one of the cheapo things, but the OM's are the very expensive tor-tis. I would have used a cheapo for the OMs if they had the right size in that material.
Hard to describe the sound, as I only strung them up today. I really can't tell any difference in the sound quality of them, but one "seems" a tad louder than the other.
Also, I don't think I mentioned that the neck on the dread is cherry. I really love the feel of the cherry neck, no pores and it finished as smooth as a baby's butt.
Ron
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- sebastiaan56
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Great work Ron! x 63 (21 each axe )
I remember the guitars you built for your boys and commenting at that time what a stellar jump you had made in fit and finish since the first. Well I gotta say it again mate, your really moving forward as a builder, every one a beauty and worthy of a pro. Excellent effort
Cheers
Kim
I remember the guitars you built for your boys and commenting at that time what a stellar jump you had made in fit and finish since the first. Well I gotta say it again mate, your really moving forward as a builder, every one a beauty and worthy of a pro. Excellent effort
Cheers
Kim
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- Ron Wisdom
- Blackwood
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- Location: Arkansas, USA
Thank you, thank you, thank you, ladies and gentlemen. You're too kind. Photos, as we all know, can be deceiving. My finish isn't quite as nice as it appears, but it isn't bad and it is improving with each build, which is what it's all about.
Craig, here's what I do:
For the neck, I use no filler and no shellac. I apply the first two coats of tru-oil with 0000 steel wool and let the sludge partially fill the pores. After about three hours I wipe on another thin coat with a cloth. After drying overnight I lightly use the wool to level, if needed, then wipe on the next coat. After 3 hours you can wool it and do another coat. I put on three coats a day and end up with 6 coats after the first two that were applied with wool. Then I set it aside for a week to really harden.
On the body, I fill with z-poxy, sand back to wood and apply shellac. When that dries I smooth it with steel wool and apply then apply tru-oil pretty much as described above. The top doesn't get the z-poxy, just a seal coat of shellac then the tru-oil.
After everything has dried for a week, I hand rub it out with medium, then fine, rubbing compound buffing till my arm gets tired. I then wipe down with lemon oil and buff with burlap.
My fretboard, bridge and head plate are just wiped with stewmac FB oil and buffed with a cloth.
Ron
Craig, here's what I do:
For the neck, I use no filler and no shellac. I apply the first two coats of tru-oil with 0000 steel wool and let the sludge partially fill the pores. After about three hours I wipe on another thin coat with a cloth. After drying overnight I lightly use the wool to level, if needed, then wipe on the next coat. After 3 hours you can wool it and do another coat. I put on three coats a day and end up with 6 coats after the first two that were applied with wool. Then I set it aside for a week to really harden.
On the body, I fill with z-poxy, sand back to wood and apply shellac. When that dries I smooth it with steel wool and apply then apply tru-oil pretty much as described above. The top doesn't get the z-poxy, just a seal coat of shellac then the tru-oil.
After everything has dried for a week, I hand rub it out with medium, then fine, rubbing compound buffing till my arm gets tired. I then wipe down with lemon oil and buff with burlap.
My fretboard, bridge and head plate are just wiped with stewmac FB oil and buffed with a cloth.
Ron
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