Mirrocat 3220

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rocket
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Mirrocat 3220

Post by rocket » Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:16 am

Hi all,, I've purchased Mirrocat 3220 to finish my next couple of builds, i have a data sheet but just need to ask those who are familiar with the product their opinion.
Data sheet says to only thin up to 30%, use a 1.5-2.0 mm orifice on the gun, use one sealer coat and two top coats, only use mirrotone stains to tint,. do any of you deviate away from the data sheets info? for instance, i have colourtone stains that are recomended to tint nitro, do you think it is compatable with 3220? and does anyone know if there is any room for variation on the thinning ratio and number of coats used. I also have some Durobond sanding sealer, not sure wheather to use it under the 3220, or even use some shellac as a sealer coat.
This is a big ask i know, but i'll be eternally greatfull for any pearls of wisdom you lot can endow me with :oops: :oops:
Cheers,,,Rod
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Bob Connor
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by Bob Connor » Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:33 am

Rod

I thin to a 50:50 ratio with a little of the Mirotone slow thinners (about5%) chucked in.

The slow thinners makes an incredible difference to the way it flows out.

I've used all manner of stains in Mirotone 3220 , from the Stewmac (Transtint) stuff to Wattyl wood stains I've bought at Bunnings. No problems with any of them.

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Bob, Geelong
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Allen
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by Allen » Sun Nov 07, 2010 7:06 am

The data sheet is focused more for cabinet makers where they are trying to get product on the job, and out the door as quickly as possible and with an acceptable finish. Totally unsuitable for what we are wanting to do.

Adding more solvent does nothing detrimental to the product except allow us to apply thin layers in a more controlled manner. It also has the advantage of being able to penetrate into the wood better, so adhesion is improved.

Every manufacturer will tell you to only use their products and never anyone else's to help stop warranty claims and complaints. I've used the Colortone stains with Mirotone with no issues at all. I've pore filled with Timbermate fillers, egg whites, super glue and WEST Systems epoxy. Sealed with shellac. All have never given me a problem.

I use a 100% reduction when spraying 3220. Be sure to use 5 - 10% extra slow solvent in that mixing ratio. It makes the world of difference.

If your surface is well prepared you will easily get by with 5 coats sprayed with 20 minutes apart. Let sit a week. Sand back with P320 being carefull not to cut through. Then another session of 5 coats and another week or more drying.

If all went well, many will like the finish just off the gun, but for the mirror finish a wet sand with P1200 and a buff does the trick.
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by rocket » Sun Nov 07, 2010 8:20 am

Thanks for the info Bob and Allen,,pardon my ignorance Bob, "100% reduction"? does that mean 50/50 laquer and thinners? And what size nozzle, if the product is thinned more do you reduce the size of the nozzle they recomend? i've got 1.2, 1.4, and 2.0. The reason i'm sounding a bit unsure, even after having finished five guitars already is that the last one i sprayed was with a new gravity feed hvlp and i had trouble getting an even gloss finish straight off the gun no matter what adjustments i made, i think maybe the fear of pruducing a dreaded run may have made me make the passes too quick.
Cheers,,, Rod.
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by Allen » Sun Nov 07, 2010 11:03 am

100% reduction means 50 / 50

I use a 1.4mm tip in my gravity feed, Also if you don't know what the adjustments on your gun do, then have a look at my spraying tutorial. You will most likely want to turn in the fluid adjustment knob 1 to 2 turns from wide open.

Thinning the product out actually helps with reducing runs, as does the extra slow thinners. What it does is gets the film to "wet out" much easier, so you are applying less product in each pass of the gun. When the product is more viscous and too fast of a thinner then you have to pile too much product on to get it to wet out, then when you have it there it keeps moving on you and you get runs.

Hard for most people to get their head around..... even some painters I've worked with over the years, that to speed up your process, you need to slow down your solvent and in our case in the automotive trade your hardener selection too.
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by rocket » Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:55 pm

Thanks Allen, i think i understand what you are saying there, i'll definitely take a look at your tutorial
Cheers,,,Rod
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by ozwood » Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:33 pm

Hi Allen ,

I know this is an old thread , but do you use Mirotone thinners or will ant premium Lacquer thinner be OK , something like 3M thinners?

Cheers,
Paul .

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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by Allen » Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:33 am

I like to use the same branded thinners simply because they may have an additive in their product that is designed to work in unison with their top coat. It's quite common with catalysed products to do this. I actually doubt that Mirotone does this, but it's always a possibility.

However I know that using a quality solvent from another company has worked for others on the forum. How well as compared to using Mirotones I couldn't say. I doubt that you will have any catastrophic failure though.
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Re: Mirrocat 3220

Post by sam » Thu Dec 13, 2012 8:01 am

If you aren't 99.9% sure of your outcome, test pieces are great way to control variables
in your finishing.

All the best,

Sam

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