Please Don't be offended by this Jay, but the major confusion here is that you are listing motors as 60 amps vs 50 amps when it should be 60 Hz vs 50Hz.
Amps is the current, Hz is frequency and that is what affects the speed that an AC motor will run at
And a transformer will step up or down voltage but not affect the frequency Hz of the power supply.
Electricity converson from the States
Re: Electricity converson from the States
jayluthier wrote:
1. step up/down transformers have a current rating which is very important. If the device on the output side of the transformer pulls more current than the transformer is rated for then its going to overheat and in most cases trip out. Its the same for any power supply device.
2. As Jeff says I think youre confusing amps and hertz.
.never let real world experience go unpunished. i was giving a general explanation of voltage vs. amperage with regard to motors. i know that shop tools on AC not DC. I was also trying to make the point that transformers can convert (step-up or step down) voltage. They have no effect on current. Simply suggesting that rather than run a 60Amp motor slower at 50 amp....how about getting the right 'local' motor. that's all I was trying to say. There seemed to be a lot of confusion regarding voltage vs amps
1. step up/down transformers have a current rating which is very important. If the device on the output side of the transformer pulls more current than the transformer is rated for then its going to overheat and in most cases trip out. Its the same for any power supply device.
2. As Jeff says I think youre confusing amps and hertz.
Martin
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Here is an interesting site that helps explain the physics of AC and DC motors etc.....All good stuff and its got animations too so that us right brainers in the crowd can get some idea of whats going on or at least have our attention distracted so we don't disturb you left brainers with silly fart noises while your reading
http://www.animations.physics.unsw.edu. ... otors.html
Cheers
Kim
http://www.animations.physics.unsw.edu. ... otors.html
Cheers
Kim
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Jay, your real world experience is well regarded. You said in the real world that the power tools had no dramas on whatever continent they were used. this is the truest test.
That said, I get the impression that your knowledge of electrical theory is a little poor, you are getting all of the variables mixed up.
Frequency (Hertz, Cycles) is related to the RPM of the generating unit ie the power station. In North America it is 60Hz, in the rest of the world it is 50Hz.
To change the frequency after the fact requires some pretty specialised gear.
Current (Amps) is a measure of the actual amount of electrons flowing in the cable. It is 6.24 x 10^18 electrons per second. It is related to the voltage pushing it and the resistance impeding it.
Voltage (Potential, Electromotive Force) is the force that pushes the current through the circuit. It is a difference in the number of electrons in different parts of the circuit. The electrons want to flow from negative to positive. It is related to the magnetic energy in the generating unit.
That said, I get the impression that your knowledge of electrical theory is a little poor, you are getting all of the variables mixed up.
Frequency (Hertz, Cycles) is related to the RPM of the generating unit ie the power station. In North America it is 60Hz, in the rest of the world it is 50Hz.
To change the frequency after the fact requires some pretty specialised gear.
Current (Amps) is a measure of the actual amount of electrons flowing in the cable. It is 6.24 x 10^18 electrons per second. It is related to the voltage pushing it and the resistance impeding it.
Voltage (Potential, Electromotive Force) is the force that pushes the current through the circuit. It is a difference in the number of electrons in different parts of the circuit. The electrons want to flow from negative to positive. It is related to the magnetic energy in the generating unit.
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DarwinStrings
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
G'day Xray, have you E-mailed Laguna and asked if they have a 240v 50 Hz model or asked what they think of running their 220v 60Hz on 240v 50Hz. I reckon they would be only too happy to reply to you.
Jim
Jim
Life is good when you are amongst the wood.
Jim Schofield
Jim Schofield
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Toejam wrote:
G'day Xray, have you E-mailed Laguna and asked if they have a 240v 50 Hz model or asked what they think of running their 220v 60Hz on 240v 50Hz. I reckon they would be only too happy to reply to you.
Jim
Botanic names ROCK!!!
That's our Jimmy boy, always seeing the forest despite all the trees.
Onya Jimbo
On that note you should also ask how much 'they' will charge to ship to AU EDIT: I see on their web site "WE SHIP WORLD WIDE"
Cheers
Kim
Re: Electricity converson from the States
I just put one of the 14" SUV saws in my shopping basket..freight to my house via Fed-ex is $528usd add $1495usd for the saw is $2023usd, that's about $2250uad on current exchange. Then you would have duty and customs charges that I would 'guess' may add 30% so that brings it up to app $3kau and then Fed-ex agency fees and then GST on the whole shebang so a rough stab in the dark would be $3500aud total. I would also expect that despite the shipping quote being to my door, the reality is the saw may require pickup from local fedex once you settle all fees charges. I would be calling customs for an estimate total and then Fedex to see what their terms are all fees paid DELIVERED. Let us know cause this could be quite interesting.
Cheers
Kim
Cheers
Kim
Re: Electricity converson from the States
yeah i have contacted laguna and asked about dealers over here and running the electrics ect. They have almost supplied over here three times but the deal has never been sealed. That is where alarm bells are ringing. Is it for motor problems or customs and shipping? im going to do my research on this one. Im still thinking that they are worth while. They are custom made for slicing veneers and do it easily and still offer the nice size of a 14 inch bandsaw. Im concious of size as i dont want a machine too big. The other option so far would be a hafco from hare and forbes, but i dont know about sturdness and tension suitable for resawing if needs be. Certanly cheap enough at $1600 +driftmaster fence @ $430 plus 2 resaw king blades at 230ish each. Grand total of $2600 for a saw i dont know about. risky i think. Then again, i dont know about the motor form the states either.
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Xray...see Jeremy's thread on resawing with his Carbatec saw. Jeremy used to work for Carbatec and knows alot about their and other company's saws.
The Lagunas look nice but if it were me making the choice I'd be going for a larger Carbatec saw.
It all boils down to bangs for buck
Cheers Martin
The Lagunas look nice but if it were me making the choice I'd be going for a larger Carbatec saw.
It all boils down to bangs for buck
Cheers Martin
Martin
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J.F. Custom
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
G'day Xray.
I've been meaning to chime in here, just a matter of finding the time.
I'd be thinking seriously about this proposal. There are certainly items and situations in which purchasing from the US is a viable option, but this may be stretching the benefits/friendship.
First, you want to compare apples to apples. The Laguna 14SUV, to the best of my knowledge, is made in China - as are many other machines. China and Taiwan dominate the bandsaw market, with Taiwan edging out China in quality (and price) as a general rule but not always the case it must be said. I've been in many factories in China and Taiwan and have seen six different major brands lined up ready for packing in the one warehouse. So it is not as though you are buying European quality for the dollar.
When I worked at Carba-Tec, we received an early version of this unit maybe 3 years ago? as a 'sample' to assess; not branded Laguna of course but from the same manufacturer and painted bright yellow if memory serves me correctly. At the time, we found it a little rough around the edges on several fronts and being more expensive than other machines to purchase, did not think the benefits outweighed at the time so did not follow through and modify/import it. That was years ago though and China quickly refines and adjusts - this new model certainly seems a tidier unit than that I looked over, from the pictures at least but it is difficult to assess. Nice cuts on the video it must be said but then, pine and american walnut are not the toughest timbers by a long shot and most machines - certainly in that price range - with a new blade will do the same. Take advertising as this is with a grain of salt.
My concern though is that on top of the issues over freight, charges, duties, taxes and other seemingly random hikes you will face, you could have issues with warranty. You are hoping it arrives unscathed for a start - perhaps the shipping includes insurance but you really don't want the headache of putting in a claim. All care, no responsibility I believe.
But I guess I see this as a substantial purchase and therefore look to the future. You will have to go direct to Laguna for spare parts as nobody locally will carry anything that suits. The parts are not 'standard' or interchangeable so you will have to buy Laguna. If there is a warranty claim, often it is the responsibility of the purchaser to 'return' the item for assessing the warranty claim - check their warranty details. You may get lucky and if they believe it is straight forward, they may not push the issue. But anything serious and they will certainly not just accept your word. At the very least, they may request you take it to a local machinery repairer to assess. If they deem it not a warranty issue/item; you foot the assessment bill. And so on... You see my drift here. You may be lucky and have no issues and be very happy, you can hope that is the case because anything else will make you cry. Sooner or later though you will require parts so be prepared for what is required to obtain them.
You need to assess what you really need the machine to do and do well. It's not just motor power you need to consider. Build quality and fit, frame strength and ability to tension, wheel balancing, bearings, tension springs etc.
If it is a compact re-saw machine you want, I think the Hitachi unit is the one to consider. It only has 2HP btw but due to the quality of said motor and the build quality (ex Japan), combined with the functionally dedicated design, that is plenty enough to cut anything you throw at it. This is a small compact unit too but is a dedicated re-saw bandsaw with 75mm (3") wide Stellite Tipped blades. In other words, you can't use it as an ordinary bandsaw to cut curves etc. From memory though, it was about $5000-6000 I believe. A second hand unit would be in the ball park if you could find one. I know I'd love one of these.
You could always consider getting an old quality cast iron beast and spending the money and time to refurbish it - you can't beat them. Otherwise I'd look again at local offerings - the Hafco you mentioned or Carba-Tec or Jet or possibly other. All have good and not so good units. Of course, this is good by modern standards and the price.
As for what Kim mentioned, I don't think Fed Ex will deliver it to your door. At most, they may sub-contract the last part of the delivery and charge you double. Bare in mind delivery from the port may also require a tailgate lift truck due to the weight of the item. If so, they usually charge by time rather than weight too. You could elect no tailgate lift to save money but due to current health and safety laws, the truck can turn up and request you to remove it from the vehicle. It happens believe me. Of course, most truckies will give you a hand to unload but they are not 'required' to do so by law for anything over about 30kg from memory. Otherwise you'd be collecting it from the port with all the customs paperwork to boot. Certainly things to consider.
You could buy the Laguna and be totally happy end of story and if you do, I hope this is the case. I just personally fail to see the benefits over the drawbacks in this particular instance - but that is me.
Good luck whatever you choose.
Jeremy.
I've been meaning to chime in here, just a matter of finding the time.
I'd be thinking seriously about this proposal. There are certainly items and situations in which purchasing from the US is a viable option, but this may be stretching the benefits/friendship.
First, you want to compare apples to apples. The Laguna 14SUV, to the best of my knowledge, is made in China - as are many other machines. China and Taiwan dominate the bandsaw market, with Taiwan edging out China in quality (and price) as a general rule but not always the case it must be said. I've been in many factories in China and Taiwan and have seen six different major brands lined up ready for packing in the one warehouse. So it is not as though you are buying European quality for the dollar.
When I worked at Carba-Tec, we received an early version of this unit maybe 3 years ago? as a 'sample' to assess; not branded Laguna of course but from the same manufacturer and painted bright yellow if memory serves me correctly. At the time, we found it a little rough around the edges on several fronts and being more expensive than other machines to purchase, did not think the benefits outweighed at the time so did not follow through and modify/import it. That was years ago though and China quickly refines and adjusts - this new model certainly seems a tidier unit than that I looked over, from the pictures at least but it is difficult to assess. Nice cuts on the video it must be said but then, pine and american walnut are not the toughest timbers by a long shot and most machines - certainly in that price range - with a new blade will do the same. Take advertising as this is with a grain of salt.
My concern though is that on top of the issues over freight, charges, duties, taxes and other seemingly random hikes you will face, you could have issues with warranty. You are hoping it arrives unscathed for a start - perhaps the shipping includes insurance but you really don't want the headache of putting in a claim. All care, no responsibility I believe.
But I guess I see this as a substantial purchase and therefore look to the future. You will have to go direct to Laguna for spare parts as nobody locally will carry anything that suits. The parts are not 'standard' or interchangeable so you will have to buy Laguna. If there is a warranty claim, often it is the responsibility of the purchaser to 'return' the item for assessing the warranty claim - check their warranty details. You may get lucky and if they believe it is straight forward, they may not push the issue. But anything serious and they will certainly not just accept your word. At the very least, they may request you take it to a local machinery repairer to assess. If they deem it not a warranty issue/item; you foot the assessment bill. And so on... You see my drift here. You may be lucky and have no issues and be very happy, you can hope that is the case because anything else will make you cry. Sooner or later though you will require parts so be prepared for what is required to obtain them.
You need to assess what you really need the machine to do and do well. It's not just motor power you need to consider. Build quality and fit, frame strength and ability to tension, wheel balancing, bearings, tension springs etc.
If it is a compact re-saw machine you want, I think the Hitachi unit is the one to consider. It only has 2HP btw but due to the quality of said motor and the build quality (ex Japan), combined with the functionally dedicated design, that is plenty enough to cut anything you throw at it. This is a small compact unit too but is a dedicated re-saw bandsaw with 75mm (3") wide Stellite Tipped blades. In other words, you can't use it as an ordinary bandsaw to cut curves etc. From memory though, it was about $5000-6000 I believe. A second hand unit would be in the ball park if you could find one. I know I'd love one of these.
You could always consider getting an old quality cast iron beast and spending the money and time to refurbish it - you can't beat them. Otherwise I'd look again at local offerings - the Hafco you mentioned or Carba-Tec or Jet or possibly other. All have good and not so good units. Of course, this is good by modern standards and the price.
As for what Kim mentioned, I don't think Fed Ex will deliver it to your door. At most, they may sub-contract the last part of the delivery and charge you double. Bare in mind delivery from the port may also require a tailgate lift truck due to the weight of the item. If so, they usually charge by time rather than weight too. You could elect no tailgate lift to save money but due to current health and safety laws, the truck can turn up and request you to remove it from the vehicle. It happens believe me. Of course, most truckies will give you a hand to unload but they are not 'required' to do so by law for anything over about 30kg from memory. Otherwise you'd be collecting it from the port with all the customs paperwork to boot. Certainly things to consider.
You could buy the Laguna and be totally happy end of story and if you do, I hope this is the case. I just personally fail to see the benefits over the drawbacks in this particular instance - but that is me.
Good luck whatever you choose.
Jeremy.
Re: Electricity converson from the States
thanks for the time jeremy. Ive searched high and low on the net and found some good models. Im also going to get to the canberra wood working show on the 5th Sep to see whats about or about to be released.
I looked into customs in detail and if there were no charges it would be a viable option to bring a laguna in but at close to 600 extra it is a little rediculous.
The hitachi machines are awesome and are too much for my pocket new. If anyone is interested in getting rid of one, please dont hesitate to let me know.
Thanks for all the replies on this and ill let you know ho get on.
I looked into customs in detail and if there were no charges it would be a viable option to bring a laguna in but at close to 600 extra it is a little rediculous.
The hitachi machines are awesome and are too much for my pocket new. If anyone is interested in getting rid of one, please dont hesitate to let me know.
Thanks for all the replies on this and ill let you know ho get on.
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DarwinStrings
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
Laguna, do state that their 14 inch, 14 inch SE and 16 inch machines are made by a Belgian manufacturer. The larger machines being made in Italy.
Jim
Jim
Life is good when you are amongst the wood.
Jim Schofield
Jim Schofield
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vandenboom
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
xray - i've only just tuned into this post for the first time, and I'm left with the summary that you want to be able to resaw stuff for luthiery and you are concerned about foorprint size due to space issues.
I don't know how the 14" Laguna compares in size to a 14" Carbatec, but I know that the 14" Carbatec doesn't occupy much less than the 17". Furthermore, if you bear in mind the room you need in front and behind the saw in order to resaw reasonable lengths (eg. 1m), then I don't think there's much in the space saving of 14" compared to 17".
So what I am getting out is this - 17"2hp Carbatec are on special for $1600 at present. Replace the blade for $130. I got one of these earlier in the year - resawed backs, tops, veneers. Maybe there is something more you need to be able to do......
Is the Laguna unit portable or really that much smaller than other 14" units?
Just wondering.
Frank
I don't know how the 14" Laguna compares in size to a 14" Carbatec, but I know that the 14" Carbatec doesn't occupy much less than the 17". Furthermore, if you bear in mind the room you need in front and behind the saw in order to resaw reasonable lengths (eg. 1m), then I don't think there's much in the space saving of 14" compared to 17".
So what I am getting out is this - 17"2hp Carbatec are on special for $1600 at present. Replace the blade for $130. I got one of these earlier in the year - resawed backs, tops, veneers. Maybe there is something more you need to be able to do......
Is the Laguna unit portable or really that much smaller than other 14" units?
Just wondering.
Frank
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J.F. Custom
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
Hi Xray, no problem.
Jim - hmmm, not sure about that. Can you point to where they state this definitively?
They use the phrase 'European Style' in their description - usually an indicator itself. When it is made in Europe, they would usually mention it, such as they do on the 14SE model. The 14SE and 14SEL are made in Bulgaria I believe, other larger models are made in Italy as you suggest. But all the '3000' series, this includes the 14, 14SUV and I think the 16 and 18 too, are from China to the best of my knowledge.
I can't be 100% certain as I don't own one but I believe it to be. I do know the model I received at C-Tec was from China and that was claimed to be from the maker of certain Laguna models - certainly looked the same too. Aside from that, you can do a web search, this one from a few owners seems to confirm my thoughts -
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=136459
Anyway, a quick email to Laguna would clear it up should Xray wish to. Finally though, as I mentioned earlier, this is not a 'bad' thing. I was mentioning it only to inform Xray to compare it to other Asian models - benefits/specs/price etc for a fair comparison.
Many people believe certain brands to be made entirely in one country or another when it is not always the case. Scheppach are a case in point. German brand, once all made in Germany I believe(?), but now China for many models, Germany for others. However the name is assumed to be made in Germany. Price v. specs/features is often a reasonable indicator. Many machines are 'European Designed' but 'assembled or manufactured' in China. We as the consumer I guess can't complain as we have access to a very large variety of tools and machinery these days that at one time would have been beyond the budget of most.
Cheers,
Jeremy.
Jim - hmmm, not sure about that. Can you point to where they state this definitively?
They use the phrase 'European Style' in their description - usually an indicator itself. When it is made in Europe, they would usually mention it, such as they do on the 14SE model. The 14SE and 14SEL are made in Bulgaria I believe, other larger models are made in Italy as you suggest. But all the '3000' series, this includes the 14, 14SUV and I think the 16 and 18 too, are from China to the best of my knowledge.
I can't be 100% certain as I don't own one but I believe it to be. I do know the model I received at C-Tec was from China and that was claimed to be from the maker of certain Laguna models - certainly looked the same too. Aside from that, you can do a web search, this one from a few owners seems to confirm my thoughts -
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=136459
Anyway, a quick email to Laguna would clear it up should Xray wish to. Finally though, as I mentioned earlier, this is not a 'bad' thing. I was mentioning it only to inform Xray to compare it to other Asian models - benefits/specs/price etc for a fair comparison.
Many people believe certain brands to be made entirely in one country or another when it is not always the case. Scheppach are a case in point. German brand, once all made in Germany I believe(?), but now China for many models, Germany for others. However the name is assumed to be made in Germany. Price v. specs/features is often a reasonable indicator. Many machines are 'European Designed' but 'assembled or manufactured' in China. We as the consumer I guess can't complain as we have access to a very large variety of tools and machinery these days that at one time would have been beyond the budget of most.
Cheers,
Jeremy.
Re: Electricity converson from the States
vandenboom wrote:
Frank, Carbatec website is currently showing $1395 as reduced price on 17" bandie....until 4/9.
Cheers Martin
So what I am getting out is this - 17"2hp Carbatec are on special for $1600 at present.
Frank, Carbatec website is currently showing $1395 as reduced price on 17" bandie....until 4/9.
Cheers Martin
Martin
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Just one more thing to consider, small saws destroy blades 'much' faster than large saws. Obviously the shorter length of a 14" saw demands that each tooth of the band will pass through the wood more times per pass than it would on a 20" band. Yes you can argue that you could buy a carbide tipped blade and that will address the problem to a degree. But the thing to consider is not how fast the teeth will blunt, but band fatigue.
A band rolling over the tight radius of a 14" wheel will heat and stress much more quickly than one following a 20" radius. This means that 'long' before you ever get full wear from and expensive carbide tipped blade, its band will begin to crack and snap and will continue to do so as quickly as you can have it re-welded. When you consider that a good part of the cost associated with buying a new blade is the initial weld to form the band and then shipping, and those components remain the same be it for a 14" or 20" band, and that a 20" band will offer more resharpens before the band starts cracking with fatigue resulting in less welds and less shipping over the life of the machine and then you look at the relativly small amount of extra floor space that a 20" saw would actually use over a 14" saw, it starts to become difficult to justify choosing a smaller saw if you have the dosh to folk out for a big bastard.
My advice, get a good old solid cast saw, trick it up with ceramic guides, new tyres, and a decent set up, and it will kick the arse of a Laguna or any other band of saw in every department and you will still have money to spare.
Cheers
Kim
A band rolling over the tight radius of a 14" wheel will heat and stress much more quickly than one following a 20" radius. This means that 'long' before you ever get full wear from and expensive carbide tipped blade, its band will begin to crack and snap and will continue to do so as quickly as you can have it re-welded. When you consider that a good part of the cost associated with buying a new blade is the initial weld to form the band and then shipping, and those components remain the same be it for a 14" or 20" band, and that a 20" band will offer more resharpens before the band starts cracking with fatigue resulting in less welds and less shipping over the life of the machine and then you look at the relativly small amount of extra floor space that a 20" saw would actually use over a 14" saw, it starts to become difficult to justify choosing a smaller saw if you have the dosh to folk out for a big bastard.
My advice, get a good old solid cast saw, trick it up with ceramic guides, new tyres, and a decent set up, and it will kick the arse of a Laguna or any other band of saw in every department and you will still have money to spare.
Cheers
Kim
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Very good. Gee Carbatec is hard to go past for that amount.
Just had a look and i cant see the lower price.
I think he price I found was over 1500. any links welcome to see the lower price cheers
Just had a look and i cant see the lower price.
I think he price I found was over 1500. any links welcome to see the lower price cheers
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tim mullin
Re: Electricity converson from the States
kiwigeo wrote:
I think xray would need to know which Carbatec store, as they definitely don't all have it on sale -- certainly not Auckland or Sydney (the only ones I checked).
I think xray would need to know which Carbatec store, as they definitely don't all have it on sale -- certainly not Auckland or Sydney (the only ones I checked).
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Adelaide, Brisbane and Melbourne definitely have the sale on. I dare say if you went into Sydney and talked turkey they might drop the price theyre asking.
Martin
Re: Electricity converson from the States
Quote:
Just make sure you connect the green wire to the ground lug. Beyond that, a motor could care less about how you connect the other two.
The Motor may not care but the switching circiut will, the Active is switched for a reason , cause it's the bitey one , my recommendation is get the active and nuetral wired correctly , if you buy a nice clear heavy duty Clipsal plug and insist on doing it yourself it has nice instruction on the cardboard label.
Just make sure you connect the green wire to the ground lug. Beyond that, a motor could care less about how you connect the other two.
The Motor may not care but the switching circiut will, the Active is switched for a reason , cause it's the bitey one , my recommendation is get the active and nuetral wired correctly , if you buy a nice clear heavy duty Clipsal plug and insist on doing it yourself it has nice instruction on the cardboard label.
Paul .
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Bob Connor
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
Well done Jeremy, looks like I was missing something.... the truth. That statement on his video is very misleading.
Jim
Jim
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Bob Connor
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Re: Electricity converson from the States
OzWood wrote:
Quote:
You're quite right that I over-simplified this, although what I stated is absolutely correct for a 220VAC machine sourced from North America, where there is NO neutral, just two line feeds on opposite phase. The North American switches for such machines don't have a neutral side, but are simply labelled L1 and L2 (or something similar). When connected to 220-240 VAC elsewhere, the L and N lines can be connected to L1 and L2, or L2 and L1 -- doesn't matter, as a double-pole switch cuts both.
Switches designed for Australasia may or may not be useable in North America (if they require a neutral, equivalent to ground, connection, as many/most 220 receptacles in NA workshops will not have a true neutral connection).
When in ANY doubt -- call a sparky to sort it out and keep your insurance valid.
This is the final re-constructed message of this topic posted by the ANZLF help team.
Quote:
Just make sure you connect the green wire to the ground lug. Beyond that, a motor could care less about how you connect the other two.
The Motor may not care but the switching circiut will, the Active is switched for a reason , cause it's the bitey one , my recommendation is get the active and nuetral wired correctly , if you buy a nice clear heavy duty Clipsal plug and insist on doing it yourself it has nice instruction on the cardboard label.
You're quite right that I over-simplified this, although what I stated is absolutely correct for a 220VAC machine sourced from North America, where there is NO neutral, just two line feeds on opposite phase. The North American switches for such machines don't have a neutral side, but are simply labelled L1 and L2 (or something similar). When connected to 220-240 VAC elsewhere, the L and N lines can be connected to L1 and L2, or L2 and L1 -- doesn't matter, as a double-pole switch cuts both.
Switches designed for Australasia may or may not be useable in North America (if they require a neutral, equivalent to ground, connection, as many/most 220 receptacles in NA workshops will not have a true neutral connection).
When in ANY doubt -- call a sparky to sort it out and keep your insurance valid.
This is the final re-constructed message of this topic posted by the ANZLF help team.
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