Where do you get your nut's and saddles from? I've seen some places on ebay that are selling nuts and saddles for a fairly good price, as compared to Stew Mac, LMI and others. Are they for the most part of equal quality?
So far I've been using MOP as it's been about the same price or slightly less than bone from the main suppliers, but just considering something else.
Source for bone nut and saddles
Hi Allen
I got some stuff from Taisamle on ebay, all I really wanted was some MOP and to try a set of his classical tuners but to make it worth the postage I threw in a few bids on his auction items (and got most of it for next to nothing). This included a set of ten bone nuts and saddles for about $5 and they were perfect. The machine heads he sells are the same brand that Yamaha have been using for years and better than good enough for the budget builder. A mate down south buys all his bone and horn from the same guy or Taiwan art shop and said the quality was great and is the same from both.
http://stores.ebay.com/Taisamlu-Musical ... idZ2QQtZkm
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Taiwan-arts-Shop
Alternately find a waterhole in the NT and go for a wade feeling with your toes, with luck you will find some good big buffalo bones.
I got some stuff from Taisamle on ebay, all I really wanted was some MOP and to try a set of his classical tuners but to make it worth the postage I threw in a few bids on his auction items (and got most of it for next to nothing). This included a set of ten bone nuts and saddles for about $5 and they were perfect. The machine heads he sells are the same brand that Yamaha have been using for years and better than good enough for the budget builder. A mate down south buys all his bone and horn from the same guy or Taiwan art shop and said the quality was great and is the same from both.
http://stores.ebay.com/Taisamlu-Musical ... idZ2QQtZkm
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Taiwan-arts-Shop
Alternately find a waterhole in the NT and go for a wade feeling with your toes, with luck you will find some good big buffalo bones.
Isn't that what they tell the tourists....and don't mind those really big lizards.... they don't biteJames Mc wrote:Hi Allen
Alternately find a waterhole in the NT and go for a wade feeling with your toes, with luck you will find some good big buffalo bones.
This is one of the guys that I was looking at on ebay. Good to hear that it's decent product. Never really sure when your dealing with some of these vendors.
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Bob Connor
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Good one Bob ! 
Yeah , I do likewise. Locals in our area slaughter their own beef , so I have a good supply . That's if our dogs don't beat me to them.
I turned some bridge pins recently and they have great colour.
Last edited by Craig on Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bob, was that image taken in Istanbull??? May just be me but that second cow looks a lot like Osama Binladen...wonder what sort of tone that would produce?? Hmm marketing may not be too bad either especially in the bible belt of the USA, worship guitars are big there..This guitar made with genuine religious nut 
Seriously though I have produced bone for bridge and saddle by simply boiling with just a little dish washing detergent. I take the bone down to usable pieces first rather than make soup with the whole thing, but I must try that. Then once I have my little billets, I just boil them for a while.
The reason I process this way is that I think it may be beneficial to leave a few oils in the bone to help with string lubrication in the slot. I also imagine that those residual fats or oils may in fact help the bone avoid becoming crumbly over time and this way certainly seems to help you achieve a more translucent look to the bone, more natural rather than the stark white of bleached bone.
Cheers
Kim
Seriously though I have produced bone for bridge and saddle by simply boiling with just a little dish washing detergent. I take the bone down to usable pieces first rather than make soup with the whole thing, but I must try that. Then once I have my little billets, I just boil them for a while.
The reason I process this way is that I think it may be beneficial to leave a few oils in the bone to help with string lubrication in the slot. I also imagine that those residual fats or oils may in fact help the bone avoid becoming crumbly over time and this way certainly seems to help you achieve a more translucent look to the bone, more natural rather than the stark white of bleached bone.
Cheers
Kim
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Bob Connor
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Dennis Leahy
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Dennis you are as sick as me..... Bob how did you get a picture of my two ex-wives????
Most of my bone has come from LMI and I have noticed a lot of variance in the hardness. Some pieces my files just cut right through, some you have to file forever......
Can cows get osteoporosis?
Unbleached bone tends to be around 10% harder which is desirable to me and the more vintage, amber color I like too.
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Dennis Leahy
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sebastiaan56
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Well, they are getting down....... Actually we all get so much over here that that kind of stuff hardly raises an eyebrow. Point taken (get it..... "point taken!...., ha ha ha ha....ahem.....), Roo bone should also work I have a bunch of fibulas laying around. Getting the cutting right should be fun.Dennis Leahy wrote:Hmmm...
Seems none of the luthiers in Oz saw that as funny. Maybe I should take it down?
Dennis
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