Fretting and nut making tools

[joel]

I've been thinking a great deal about the tools that I'll need to install frets and make nuts. I'm no where near that stage in my first build, but I want to plan ahead and get the best and most cost effective tools for these jobs that I can. There's few things I hate more than having to fork out more money because I didn't plan ahead properly.

So, my questions to all you guru's out there is; If you could start over from scratch as far as buying fretting and nut making tools goes, with what you know now, what tools would you buy?

I don't have any practical knowledge of my own to go off, and looking through the Stew-mac cattle-dog tends to confuse rather than enlighten. What are the best tools for the job? Is there a sweet spot of functionality vs. price?

[graham mcdonald]

I have been fretting for 25 years with a ball-peen hammer which used to belong to my father in law and ground down end nippers. I level frets with a 12" long medium flat file and/or a carborundum stone and then reprofile with a convex fret file and polish with wet&dry. Nuts with a set of Ibanez nut files and a Japanese saw sharpening file which is great for plain strings.

StewMac has a couple of other tools which I occasionally lust after, but something to get the fret into the slot, something to cut them to length, something to level them and something to reprofile them are the basics.

For nuts a set of appropriately sized slotting files and files/sandpaper to shape the nut. A lot of the stuff in the StewMac catalogue is for repair shops who might do half a dozen fret jobs or nuts a day on all manner of different instruments and is designed to make that sort of work quicker and simpler and as such not really necessary for the amateur guitar builder. (Though nice if you have the cash!)

cheers

graham

[kiwigeo]

My fretting kit:

- Stewmac fret nippers
- Stewmac fret pullers
- Stewmac fret hammer
- 10" bastard mill file for rough dressing fret ends and fret tops.
- Two Stew mac fret end files (two sizes per file)
- Stewmac fret dressing tool (has a band of emery which rubs against fret top.
- large bag of lead shot for holding under soundboard while hammering upper frets (I fret with te neck on the guitar).
- some of those dinky metal fretboard protectors that sit over the fret and stop the fretboard getting damaged.

[Paul B]

Mine is:

Fret slotting saw blade - from Shane at High Mountain Tonewoods
Fret press cauls - I think I got these from John Watkins
Fret press caul holder - Stewmac
Fret end dressing file - Stewmac
Fret tang nippers - Modified Dick Smith PCB nippers

And that's it. I've found in my very limited experience that if the frets are pushed in there's not really any need to level and dress them - provided that the fretboard is prepared properly. I only had to do that on the first guitar after I'd hammered them in. I went back and refretted that guitar with the new method 'cause the original job was so poor.

[Allen]

I started out with some very basic tools that I already had and these worked well for the first few guitars and I added and improved as I progressed.

I started with some basic side cutters, flat file, small ball peen hammer and I had to purchase a fret crowning file. Plus misc. sandpapers and buffing compound. I don't have a table saw, so I bought a hand fret cutting saw. If I had a table saw I would cut fret slots that way every day of the week. Cutting by hand sucks. I build my own fretting miter box.

I laid out the scale by calipers for the first few guitars, then bought the Ibex Fret Scale Rule. Really saves heaps of time, and pretty well eliminates errors unless you have dyslexic tendencies and mark out the wrong scale half way through....don't ask.

I've added a Arbor Press that I bought at a local tool store that is just like Stew Mac's but for only $89 AU, and no shipping. Bought the fret press arbor and caul from Stew Mac. If I was to start over again and even thought that I would build a few guitars, I think I would get these as they are really great tools and do a great job. If just one guitar then hammer them in. I also bought the 18" long alloy radiused sanding block. Expensive but another quality tool that should last a life time. Put it on the wish list if you think that you'll be building more than one.

If you are going to make a bound fret board, then get the Stew Mac fret tang nippers. I tried to make the cheap version by modifying nibblers that you can pick up at Dick Smith Electronics, but they just aren't made to anywhere the same quality, and it was just a waste of time and money.

While were at it, Stew Mac's string spacing rule is really handy, but not essential. I got some Japanese nut slottling files from Aust. Luthier Supplies, and the 3 degree bridge pin reamer.

A set of needle files (quite inexpensive at Bunnies) are handy for touching up fret ends at all kinds of odd jobs.

Tool acquisition never stops...

[Hesh1956]

I am really sold on pressing frets and have the Jaws II as well as the arbor press from Stew-Mac.

Recently I watched a professional fret job in which the Luthier used the Jaws II for every fret in every location. Previously I did not think that this was possible. He used two additional, very simple jigs that I plan on making and I will post some pics here when I get them done.

My own tests show that pressing frets creates around half the compression hence half the back bow of hammering.

In addition when you press frets you also have the opportunity to glue them down once and for all (until you use heat to remove) using the press as a clamp. I also learned that when pressing and gluing say a 16" radius fret board a great way to get the ends down on a bound board is to use a 14" caul and glue the fret in place under pressure from the Jaws II.

The pros that I know seem to use some other specialized tools that they make themselves and we can't buy. I plan on making some of these too and will post pics when I do.

[sebastiaan56]

Hi Joel,

Im an amateur, actually probably more of a butcher and have a strict budget. I have done three and a half instruments in a year. So here is what I use,

- A coping saw with fine teeth blade, for cutting fret slots and initial cutting of slots on the nut. Ive also used it to cut the neck and headstock shape. Slow and needs patience but Ive got no deadlines.
- A hammer I turned from a piece of crapiata for gently pounding the frets into the fretboard. When I get a bit more motivated Ill make a drill press fret pressing jig from some Jarrah.
- A set of jewellers files from Bunnies. We are shareholders.
- A set of cheap side cutters for lopping of fret ends. I do the initial finishing after that on my linishing belt.
- A linishing belt / grinder combo, also from Bunnies. For shaping.
- Im yet to make a fret levelling block. I use a ruler and 800 grit on a paddle pop stick.

One thing Ill add, I use boxboard, found on the back of writing pads, for polishing. It works really well on bone, is a fraction of the cost of higher grades of abrasive papers and much more environmentally responsible as you can recycle when its been burnished. The sides of cardboard boxes also work well. I still use abrasive papers up to 800 grit.

Sebastiaan

[Craig]

Hi Joel,

I splashed out and bought the L.M.I. fret slotting jig and their ( ENGLISH ) saw. It comes with a slotting template of your choice.Two scales per template. It would be difficult to get accurate slots without such a template. Yes it was expensive ! . , but it's a great jig and beautifully made. StewMac make a less expensive one.

I think cutting fret slots is one of those things you have to get right if you want good intonation and good fitting frets. Very difficult to get this accurate job done without having a really good jig set up.

I still hammer them in and have no problems. A hard faced fibreglass/plastic hammer. The deadblow hammers available would be good here, providing you get the ones with the fibreglass/plastic head.

With the fret made to a tighter radius than the fingerboard, tap each end of the fret in , then tap the fret either end , working towards the centre of the fret. This will push the barb of the fret ends a little towards the outside of the fingerbard and thereby lock it in , so that you won't get fret ends lifting. Probably ends up at around 8 taps per fret. Keep the taps to a minimum.

To avoid getting hammer marks on your fretboard ,,,,, DON"T MISS THE FRET ! . I've found the little metal guards that are supposed to help out here , DON'T. The hammer is still able to make a mark . They don't offer enough protection. I've put masking tape over them, and this helps. I concentrate and don't miss !

I don't use glue on them at all . Oh , put a tiny bevel on the slots before hammering in.

To level the frets , I use a long length of aluminium U channel which I have trued up. Double stick tape an abrasive paper to it. . I tryed to find a file to do the job , but after taking my straight edge to the hardware store , failed to find a file that was absolutley straight . You might get lucky.

I have a fret rounding file from StewMac and also their tiny fret end file.

I use a lead shot leather bag under the neck shaft .

As for nuts , I get by with just having a set of nut slot files I purchased from Gerald Gilet.

Hope this helps mate.

Cheers, Craig

[joel]

Thanks for all of the replies. They've certainly given me a few things to think about.

I really like the idea of pressing frets in. What do you think of using a drill press with something like the fret caul system from Stewmac?

[Paul B]

I've been using a drill press and it does work, but you need one with a strong table and strong handles.

An arbor press is a better alternative and they aren't expensive.

[Allen]

I tried the drill press method first and while it did the job, it wasn't anywhere as good as the arbor press. I suppose it depends on how robust your drill press is.

[joel]

It's a big bugger. It's a "bench mounted" one, but I can only just lift it. 3/4HP 16 speed Total Tools job. The good thing with using it initially with fretting cauls is that I could upgrade to a dedicated 1 ton arbour press in the future.

As for the other tools, I might just have to save up for a while for some decent nut files and a fret slotting jig. I've got 2 japanese saws with kerfs of 0.6mm and 0.7mm so I reckon one of those will work for actually cutting the slots.

[Allen]

Here's a picture of my home made fret board cutting miter box. Nothing too flash, The bit of metal on the top sets the depth of cut. Just mark out the slots and cut away. Other than the saw, cost next to nothing.