installing truss rods

[gratay]

I am about to install a gotoh 2-way truss rod in my neck...
The closest router bit I could find was 11mm which is very close ...with calipers the truss rod measures slightly under that by maybe 0.3mm.. even though most suggest 11mm trench it does have a little play there.
I am wondering if you guys epoxy or silicone the U-channel of the truss rod into the truss rod slot? Do you epoxy all the way down each side or just a couple of spots on each side ?
Thanks for any help?
Grant

[Bob Connor]

G'day Grant

We've been using the Gotoh 2 way.

We epoxy along the length of the truss rod to ensure no rattles .

I'd be keeping any silicon away from your instrument. It may affect glueing and repairs down the track.

11mm was the closest bit we could get here too.

Cheers

Bob

[gratay]

thanks for the speedy reply Bob...
I'm thinking maybe using the 5 minute Z-poxy and killing 2 birds with 1 stone as I'll need it for a sanding sealer.
Is that what you guys use?
cheers Grant

[Hesh1956]

Grant buddy get some Z-Poxy "finishing resin" and don't use the 5 minute stuff as pore filler/sealer. 5 minutes is not enough time and the best epoxies for pore filling tend to be fairly thin.

[Allen]

I had bought these rods from Aust. Luthier Supply, and when I asked them they said to install with a small blob of silicon sealer in a few spots in the slot, then push the rod into it. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH. Just enough to take out the rattle. I had a small tube of the stuff, and managed to get just a little deep in the slot without getting it any where else.

Bob's right, if you get some on your hands and start messing about then your in for some trouble when it comes time for finishing.

I have know idea if this is the correct way or not. I just followed their instructions. It's the way I installed 3 rods, and it seemed to work. They were fit so that the rod was flush with the top of the neck, so the fret board fit perfectly flat across the entire width of the neck.

[gratay]

I am on the right tram line now.
cheers bob, I couldn't find another router bit that was any closer so I'll go with the 11mm
thanks hesh, I didn't realise there was also a z-poxy especially for grain filling so I'll look into that.
and cheers Allen,... I got my rods from ALS also ..I thought I'd ask here before emailing them...and now I don't have to..after much reading it seems more people opt for the epoxy method so I think I'll try that , although the silicone idea makes sense to me as a shock absorber so I'd imagine it would equally as good.

[kiwigeo]

If you dont have exactly the right size router cutter you can try the nearest size smaller and do several passes with the router adding masking tape to the router fence to widen the cut by a fraction. This is also how I cut channels for back strips etc.

[kiwigeo]

Grant buddy get some Z-Poxy "finishing resin" and don't use the 5 minute stuff as pore filler/sealer. 5 minutes is not enough time and the best epoxies for pore filling tend to be fairly thin.

A 5 minute pore filling job.....now that would be fun to watch

[Dave White]

I use the gotoh 2 way in almost all of my instruments and use an 11mm router bit. The rod fits very snugly. I route the slot so there is around 1mm to 1.5mm above the rod when fitted and glue in a mahogany cap:

[joel]

Love the neck. But that top looks a little rough

[Allen]

That's the way they are recommending installing our new Allied Rods Dave, and how the one that I'm working on now is installed.