New Bridge
New Bridge
Made this last night. It's for a 12 fret 000 that has a matching fretboard, headplate and rosette. It's Myall, a desert acacia that's very hard and dense, and that as you can see polishes quite well. This bridge weighs in at 29g.
I'm building two 000's both twelve fret, one is EIR/Adi that will have the traditional appoinments (pyramid bridge etc). The Mahogany/Euro guitar that this is going on has more contemporary appointments (backstrapped headstock, volute etc). I just didn't think that a pyramid bridge would bring out the best in this piece of timber, curves are the go here.
I'm building two 000's both twelve fret, one is EIR/Adi that will have the traditional appoinments (pyramid bridge etc). The Mahogany/Euro guitar that this is going on has more contemporary appointments (backstrapped headstock, volute etc). I just didn't think that a pyramid bridge would bring out the best in this piece of timber, curves are the go here.
Thanks guys.
Rod I have done the backstrap, in fact everything is done now except setting the neck and throwing some hard shellac at it. The hard shellac and a set of tuners are in next months budget so i guess I'll be working on the EIR/Adi 000 until then. I might post a couple of pics of this one 'in the white' in a day or two, as time permits.
I'd like to see a good tutorial on back strapping myself, my method is pretty dodgy but it works - a couple of rolls of duct tape as a clamping caul There must be a better way.
Rod I have done the backstrap, in fact everything is done now except setting the neck and throwing some hard shellac at it. The hard shellac and a set of tuners are in next months budget so i guess I'll be working on the EIR/Adi 000 until then. I might post a couple of pics of this one 'in the white' in a day or two, as time permits.
I'd like to see a good tutorial on back strapping myself, my method is pretty dodgy but it works - a couple of rolls of duct tape as a clamping caul There must be a better way.
- Ron Wisdom
- Blackwood
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- Location: Arkansas, USA
Thanks for the nice comments. It is very difficult (for me) to show this piece of wood to it's full advantage with photographs. The figure is much more pronounced when you can hold it in natural light and wiggle it back and forth.
Alain, I simply went through the grades of sand paper until I got to 3200 grit wet & dry paper, then a light rub with a cloth. I was thinking of using a polishing compound but didn't want to fill the pores with gunk. So I quit while I was ahead.
Alain, I simply went through the grades of sand paper until I got to 3200 grit wet & dry paper, then a light rub with a cloth. I was thinking of using a polishing compound but didn't want to fill the pores with gunk. So I quit while I was ahead.
Paul is not kidding about the figure in the Myall, it has great depth and I have not been able to capture same with my cheapo 3.1 Sony either.
As for treatment, Paul you should get hold of some Micro-mesh, really good stuff that comes in mixed packs from 1800 thru 12000 grit. Does a great job of polishing HARDwood and bone etc. If interested I can look up an eBay vendor I have used in the USA who does reasonable price on the packs and, from memory, ships at cost to AU.
You may remember this little experimental Mulga bridge I showed a while back on the OLF, this is only polished out with Micromesh nothing else and had not even had my sweaty paw prints buffed off of it before the snap, however, once again the image does not capture the 3 dimensional depth of the figure in the wood.
As for treatment, Paul you should get hold of some Micro-mesh, really good stuff that comes in mixed packs from 1800 thru 12000 grit. Does a great job of polishing HARDwood and bone etc. If interested I can look up an eBay vendor I have used in the USA who does reasonable price on the packs and, from memory, ships at cost to AU.
You may remember this little experimental Mulga bridge I showed a while back on the OLF, this is only polished out with Micromesh nothing else and had not even had my sweaty paw prints buffed off of it before the snap, however, once again the image does not capture the 3 dimensional depth of the figure in the wood.
Thanks Kim. I've got some "Micro-Mesh Soft Touch Finishing Pads" from stewmac, but they are kinda clogged after one use (Myall fretboard). What's the go with these things? Can you just wash them and re-use em?
Oh, and I like the shape of your bridge better than mine, I'd already stuck the bridge patch on the top when I decided to use the Myall, so I was trying to keep it's footprint withing the bridge patch area. I was going to steal Hesh's stealth bridge shape until I realised about the bridge patch issue. This one's only a tad bigger than a pyramid bridge (1" x 6").
Oh, and I like the shape of your bridge better than mine, I'd already stuck the bridge patch on the top when I decided to use the Myall, so I was trying to keep it's footprint withing the bridge patch area. I was going to steal Hesh's stealth bridge shape until I realised about the bridge patch issue. This one's only a tad bigger than a pyramid bridge (1" x 6").
Paul this is a link to the vendor I used last time to get some packs of the 6"x3" mixed grit rubber backed sheets. Looks like the shipping has taken an up charge as have the sheets since my last order so you may wish to look around a bit (Think I payed just under $9USD a pack last time)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MICRO-MESH-FINIS ... ingPayment
Anyhow, at least the shipping is the same no matter how many packs you order. I cant comment on the foam pads that you have but they should clean up fine. I can say that these rubber backs do wash fine in mild soapy water.
You will also see that they have hard foam sanding blocks for a few bucks extra to suit the Micrmesh sheets, I cut my own as I had some laying about but worth the investment if you don't happen to have any.
The secret to making Micromesh last is to wash as necessary and never to press too hard as the heat build up from friction softens the backing and causes the grit to de-laminate.
Cheers
Kim
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MICRO-MESH-FINIS ... ingPayment
Anyhow, at least the shipping is the same no matter how many packs you order. I cant comment on the foam pads that you have but they should clean up fine. I can say that these rubber backs do wash fine in mild soapy water.
You will also see that they have hard foam sanding blocks for a few bucks extra to suit the Micrmesh sheets, I cut my own as I had some laying about but worth the investment if you don't happen to have any.
The secret to making Micromesh last is to wash as necessary and never to press too hard as the heat build up from friction softens the backing and causes the grit to de-laminate.
Cheers
Kim
- Bob Connor
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Looking good Paul.
That Myall is heavy stuff. It's about the same as Gidgee which I used on a Maple OM recently. That one came in at 32 grams which, in hindsight, I thought was a little heavy. The guitar had some really nice bottom end but the tops sounded a little compressed, or lacking that sparkle.
That last Myrtle OM had a Braz bridge at 26grams and it sings.
So I'm thinking smaller guitar, light top, lightly braced, lighter bridge.
I'm getting a bit anal about bridges and bridge weights because I think it makes a hell of a difference to the responsiveness and to the top end.
I've got a heap of different local woods I've collected for bridges so I'll start another thread with some pics and weights.
If it were me I'd try and sneak another couple of grams off somewhere but then again, I don't know what you've done with the top or the bracing
so I may be speaking through me bum.
Cheers
Bob
That Myall is heavy stuff. It's about the same as Gidgee which I used on a Maple OM recently. That one came in at 32 grams which, in hindsight, I thought was a little heavy. The guitar had some really nice bottom end but the tops sounded a little compressed, or lacking that sparkle.
That last Myrtle OM had a Braz bridge at 26grams and it sings.
So I'm thinking smaller guitar, light top, lightly braced, lighter bridge.
I'm getting a bit anal about bridges and bridge weights because I think it makes a hell of a difference to the responsiveness and to the top end.
I've got a heap of different local woods I've collected for bridges so I'll start another thread with some pics and weights.
If it were me I'd try and sneak another couple of grams off somewhere but then again, I don't know what you've done with the top or the bracing
so I may be speaking through me bum.
Cheers
Bob
Bob I'm thinking the same thing. The top is lightly braced - 1/4" adi X, tone, and finger braces. Nothing below the waist is tucked under the linings, so I'm worried about gaining punch at the expense of sparkle.
Problem is I like the bridge as it stands. It's occurred to me that I can drop some mass by drilling a couple of holes in the under side. I'm still trying to see a downside to this approach.
Problem is I like the bridge as it stands. It's occurred to me that I can drop some mass by drilling a couple of holes in the under side. I'm still trying to see a downside to this approach.
- Bob Connor
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- Location: Geelong, Australia
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Other than reducing the glue surface area, I cannot realy see any issue with drilling out a little mass, but these desert woods are very stable so I would examine maybe thinning the wings down or taking a little mass off the back by shortening the length of the belly a bit. Another alternative is maybe tapering to the rear edge removing material from the behind the pin holes.
Cheers
Kim
Cheers
Kim
Nice Bridge Paul
Paul I think that your bridge looks great. the bridge that I am going to use on my current OM is 27 grams. I am bringing this up because I think that your 29 gram bridge should be fine on an OOO sized guitar. Commercially available Martin style bridges often weigh more than 29 grams too and I have weighed them when they were in excess of 38 grams as well.
I think what is more important here is does this wood ring and in doing so pass vibration freely. Also what is the bridge plate material, does it ring well, and it's weight as well. The bridge is only 1/2 of the hot dog bun so-to-speak....
So are ya going to use 3 degree, unslotted, wood pins?
I think what is more important here is does this wood ring and in doing so pass vibration freely. Also what is the bridge plate material, does it ring well, and it's weight as well. The bridge is only 1/2 of the hot dog bun so-to-speak....
So are ya going to use 3 degree, unslotted, wood pins?
Heshtone, five degree unslotted bone pins - 'cause I got some, and a tapered reamer to match.
The bridge plate is maple.
This bridge material rings like, well, I dunno, like a piece of glass maybe (but not quite) or ceramic (closer) would ring when you drop it on the bench. Plink plink plink when you tap it, though that's probably not a better description.
P.S. just found out tonite that a couple of good friends from my youth committed suicide a couple of weeks ago, a couple of weeks apart. Spoke with one of their brothers for a few hours tonite. Might have a couple days off posting to reflect on things....
The bridge plate is maple.
This bridge material rings like, well, I dunno, like a piece of glass maybe (but not quite) or ceramic (closer) would ring when you drop it on the bench. Plink plink plink when you tap it, though that's probably not a better description.
P.S. just found out tonite that a couple of good friends from my youth committed suicide a couple of weeks ago, a couple of weeks apart. Spoke with one of their brothers for a few hours tonite. Might have a couple days off posting to reflect on things....
- Ron Wisdom
- Blackwood
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- Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 1:18 am
- Location: Arkansas, USA
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