Classical No 13

DarwinStrings · Post by **DarwinStrings** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:03 pm

Okay, thanks Martin and while you mention the bridge, you are going with 15g blackwood/CF, is that around 10mm high? and how far above the sound board is the CF layer?

Jim

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:48 pm

DarwinStrings wrote:Okay, thanks Martin and while you mention the bridge, you are going with 15g blackwood/CF, is that around 10mm high? and how far above the sound board is the CF layer?

Jim

Jim,

My bridges are as in the book.... a wood/CF/wood/CF/wood stack up. On the last classical I recall the bridge ending up at around 12grams. Try and minimise amount of material you need to trim to get bridge to final size as CF is hard on plane blades and router cutters. Also be careful routing saddle slot......if the bridge isnt securely secured it can head into space as the cutter hits the CF layer.

DarwinStrings · Post by **DarwinStrings** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:58 pm

Yep, it also pays to keep your skin covered and a fan blowing across the job and away from you when you rout that stuff.

Jim

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 10:03 am

he last few days have been spent mainly tap testing and playing around with body resonances trying to get a feel for trimming of same. Next job will be installing binding.

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auscab · Post by **auscab** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:18 pm

Nice clamps . you used other ones on the kerfed lining .
Do these extruded Aluminium ones not work as well for kerfing ?

I thought they were designed for the job for some reason which I cant remember ?

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 5:37 pm

auscab wrote:Nice clamps . you used other ones on the kerfed lining .
Do these extruded Aluminium ones not work as well for kerfing ?

I thought they were designed for the job for some reason which I cant remember ?

Rob,

The aluminium clamps are supposed to be lining clamps they came from Blues Creek Guitars. Unfortunatelt they dont have quite enough clamping power for that purpose so they get used only for light clamping duties.

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:57 pm

The butt strip is in and I bent up the bindings on the bending jig. The bindings needed a bit of a touch up on the bending iron to get a good fit.

Butt strip glued in.

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Trimming the end of the butt strip and cutting a 45 degree chamfer on the purfling to match a similar chamfer on the purfs on he bottom of the bindings. I trim the end of the butt strip using a Schneider gramil.

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Back bindings ready to go.

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kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Wed Mar 05, 2014 2:36 pm

Bindings all done. I use hide glue for my bindings as the ability to undo the joint with a bit of heat is useful for adjustments and if you need to go for lunch halfway through the job.

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needsmorecowbel · Post by **needsmorecowbel** » Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:03 pm

Those mitres are looking mighty clean. keep em Coming Martin!

Looks goooooood

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 5:27 pm

Today I finally gathered up the courage to cut the body mortise with my new LMI/Robbie Obrien neck tenon/mortise cutting jig. The jig is designed for a router with a guide bushing fitted. Ive had some major problems with getting guide bushings for any of my routers (7 of the bldi things) that are the right size and dont shift position halfway through a cut. I finally went with the Bosch and a standard Bosch guide bushing. Not being the trusting type I did a few test cuts...well actually at least 10 just to make sure everything was working ok.

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Body clamped in the jig. Note chair underneath as insurance in case the guitar falls out of the jig (it didnt).

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Checking positioning of the cutters on the mortise markings. The cutter is never perfectly centred in the bushing ni matter how much you f**k with it so this is the best way to make sure the cut is accurate. I made a short cut at the opening of the mortise and then re-checked position of the cuts before doing the main cut. Cutter is a 1/2" straight double flute cutter and the bushing is 5/8" OD. This gives a 23mm wide mortise.

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Cut finished and all looks ok.

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And Voila....not a bit of chipout. Time for a beer.

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Kim Strode · Post by **Kim Strode** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 2:51 pm

Looking good Martin, can't wait to hear how it sounds.

Where do you get plans for the jig used to mortice the guitar body and neck? Or did you create your own?

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:21 pm

Kim, the plans and hardware came from LMI : http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-serv ... -templates

It's not a bad little jig but I intend modifying it so I can use bearing guided cutters rather than straight cutters with a template guide in the router. Ive just had a whole heap of trouble getting things to work perfectly with the template guides.

One important thing with this jig is to do a whole bunch of test cuts to make sure things are 100% right.

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:44 pm

Back at work so progress is suspended on the classical. Since last post I managed to get the botl on/bolt downneck fitted. This turned out to be a P in the A job....Ive spent less time on a dovetail neck joint. Ebony fretboard has been prepared and slotted and when I get home the frets will go in. I know Trevor isnt a great fan of ebony and I agree with his reasoning but ebony is black and I LOVE anything thats black.

johnparchem · Post by **johnparchem** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 1:29 am

Looking good! I have used a couple of different versions of that jigs for routing the mortise. One with templates sized for a guide bushings the other template requiring a pattern following bit. I have had issues with both so there is a bit of give and take. I like the guide bushing because I can make the cut with multiple small passes.

With the pattern following bit I needed to get a bit of the correct depth and make full depth first pass cut to engage the bearing on the template.

With the guide bushings, the bushing really needs to be carefully centered on the bit and the bushing needs to be treated nicely so it is not knocked out of round.

I ended up preferring guide bushings.

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