Side splints

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56nortondomy
Blackwood
Posts: 448
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:56 pm
Location: Melbourne western suburbs

Side splints

Post by 56nortondomy » Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:02 pm

Things seem a bit quiet here so I thought I'd show what I use for side splints. This is mainly aimed at those who have a small shed and limited tooling like me. I use 12mm half round moulding from Bunnings, it's also a real time saver not having to make your own. I buy a 2.4mt length then cut it into pieces and keep them in a container and they're ready to go I get about 2.5 guitars out of a piece.
Wayne
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ckngumbo
Blackwood
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:41 am
Location: Florida US

Re: Side splints

Post by ckngumbo » Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:34 am

I like that idea!
Thanks

ArmstrongLutherie
Wandoo
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:48 pm

Re: Side splints

Post by ArmstrongLutherie » Sun Apr 29, 2018 2:46 pm

Good idea Wayne. Side braces/splints get little attention compared to their more important relatives supporting tops and backs.

It seems all manner of approaches have been tried from linen lath to precisely shaped and, presumably, positioned wooden braces. I have looked for some well-founded technical argument for determining their dimensions and locations but so far nothing.

I've come to the conclusion that practically rules and so your solution fits the bill. As to positioning, I've decided spread 'em evenly and avoid where spreader clamps may be located in lower bout and waist.

Interested in thoughts from others.

Andew

quartpopt
Gidgee
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Location: Stanthorpe QLD

Re: Side splints

Post by quartpopt » Mon Apr 30, 2018 1:23 pm

FWTW: I've built 4 instruments...1 crossover and 3 flamencos with no side splints. They are all with laminated sides. The last has the inner lining cross grain WRC. That's a bit fiddly, but I think it makes for a very light stiff side and no chance of cupping. Kauri B/S and sitka top. All up weight with tuning m/c 1140 grams. I think Robbie's inner lining at 0.5 is a bit thin, I use 1.5mm. The outer mould is a substantial MDF laminate, the inner mould is 2x3mm ply bent on the bender, with 20 clamping blocks 19x19 glued with 15mm spacing. This is stiff but presses well into the outer mould with plenty of clamps. I line the mould with clear book covering contact. I've only used Titebond. I see no reason to use epoxy. If you use too thin an inner lining the glue will bleed through. Oh, the WRC is from a box of Venetian blind slats from the tip recycle shop, all nicely quartered about 3.5 thick. I edge glued this with Selleys 308 as it's heat proof. Then ran it through the thickness sander. Was also sold as Aerolite, but Sellys tell me they no longer make/sell it. Mine came from previous boat building, Excellent for instrument making, and much cleaner than epoxy. I'd try that for side lamination if I could get it.

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Steve.Toscano
Blackwood
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Location: Hunter Valley

Re: Side splints

Post by Steve.Toscano » Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:40 pm

I like this idea. Simple, gets the job done.

For my classicals i laminate 2x ~4mm thick strips of Indian Rosewood (usually side offcuts), cut them up and glue on so the glue line of the lamination is perpendicular to the sides. Depending on the size of the side blanks I can usually slice these down the middle and end up with 2x strips of ~8mm square. I then slightly round over the inside corners.
Why do i do it this way? Just so they are more stable and stiffer, probably overkill. I like to use IRW as i'm trying to get the mass and stiffness up in my sides.
I end up with 6 braces per side.
Steel string guitars i notch them into the kerfing like Waynes photo, classicals i dont notch them into the soundboard side kerfing instead leave them about 1mm short, but do take them all the way through to the back.

Flamenco's i use Spruce and have 3 braces per side.

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