Acacia dread build thread

Talk about musical instrument construction, setup and repair.

Moderators: kiwigeo, Jeremy D

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:42 pm

kiwigeo wrote:
Sat Nov 24, 2018 4:44 pm

I guess you can do it that way but risks would be 1). tear out on the top 2) thinning the periphery of the lower bout will affect frequency of the main top monopole 3) if there are purflings then you dont want to take too much off the top of same.

One advantage for dark coloured wood bindings would be lower risk of discoloring the top wood with dust and scraping being worked off the top of the binding.
It’s only by a hairs thickness, it won’t make a difference

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Mon Nov 26, 2018 4:44 pm

A couple more small jobs done today:

The Gidgee bridge blank was shaped first using a 1/2” endmill
3BDA660E-4F5E-492D-8CA8-D0520DDFC8B8.jpeg
Then using a 1.6mm endmill the bolt holes and the saddle slot were routed
E08D2860-23E0-4514-9ED3-C99CED600E1C.jpeg
Using a 3.2mm ball end in a downward spiralling motion to rheam the pin holes
AD73D9A6-9D91-4CAC-84F1-AFB91EADE4BF.jpeg
Then using a 1.1mm endmill to cut some string slots
02017165-5FBF-4F55-905C-4997B8B9D894.jpeg
Followed by a profile cut with a 1/4” endmill
4A26CD5F-1D34-4A22-A206-4DCFD15F6A7E.jpeg

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Mon Nov 26, 2018 4:47 pm

Fingerboard blank pre radius. I do it on the machine and then when it’s all glued together I radius by hand, however because the machine has removed the bulk it saves a lot of elbow grease later on.

I then do a rough profile cut on the machine and then profile to size by hand. I find that I get too much edge chipping on the machine to do a close profile, so I run it in the linisher afterwards down to the desired size.
705BED97-E8C7-456D-B708-7CA4A568F288.jpeg
3B206D13-3438-44D5-9995-62DC131470B3.jpeg

User avatar
Steve.Toscano
Blackwood
Posts: 340
Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:43 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by Steve.Toscano » Mon Nov 26, 2018 5:41 pm

demonx wrote:
Mon Nov 19, 2018 1:04 pm


2E8FD4F6-FD24-4311-B626-DA79EC130475.jpeg
Apologies if already been mentioned, but whats the thickness of that top? Looks quite thick in this photo..

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Mon Nov 26, 2018 6:30 pm

Can’t see which photo you’re referring to as the quote didn’t work, but the top thickness is sitting at around 3.4 at the moment and by the time it’s hand sanded ready for finishing it’ll be around 3.3mm I’m guessing.

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:25 pm

Earlier today I routed the neck joint.

First the angle must be set, you can see the bridge and fingerboard are pushed against a aluminium piece of angle which is attached to a arm that the neck is mounted on. Once that is tightened the aluminium is removed to allow routing clearance.
D92FF77B-509F-4607-85A8-0772576C3B5C.jpeg
24128666-6A30-49ED-B293-941D8A3ACFF4.jpeg
When routing I had a bit of a boo boo, luckily it didn’t cause a serious issue on the neck, however I did have to cut a new routing template on the CNC before I could continue:
67D910C3-BC6C-4F19-A9B0-32A38B51E602.jpeg
864B86E8-AEBA-4246-BE60-9441A26063AE.jpeg
Then once the tang is routed with its angle I can move into the box and route the slot using this jig, the wheel on the back is a clamp with some cork pads on it to stop scratching.
CA5FDB82-48B4-4A3E-B6CC-588A3ECA956A.jpeg
3842F805-3A70-4A66-B8BE-D85DF78BB744.jpeg
5EC6AE5A-6A3D-4941-A2FB-F2B1C5B8CAFD.jpeg
E0134C18-0592-4A13-8348-9B2DF9543343.jpeg
471F3A75-62EB-41A5-8821-D1FFB609B15B.jpeg

User avatar
WJ Guitars
Blackwood
Posts: 139
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2017 4:28 pm
Location: Sutherland NSW

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by WJ Guitars » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:00 pm

Wow the guitar is looking great! Spraying not far away.

Wayne
https://wjguitars.wixsite.com/mysite-1

User avatar
kiwigeo
Admin
Posts: 9697
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: Adelaide, Sth Australia

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by kiwigeo » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:16 pm

LOL......can't remember how many times I've routed into the sides of my neck joint templates. I need to keep reminding myself to wait until the cutter has stopped spinning before pulling the router out of the template.
Martin

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:35 pm

kiwigeo wrote:
Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:16 pm
LOL......can't remember how many times I've routed into the sides of my neck joint templates. I need to keep reminding myself to wait until the cutter has stopped spinning before pulling the router out of the template.
It wasn’t that, it was the cheap piece of shite router. I’d never recommend a triton router to anyone.

As I was routing it decided to readjust the cutter height and the bearing moved off the template. I was lucky I realised reasonably quickly before any real damage was done.

I much prefer my dewalt handheld router, but it was mounted in a jig and this one wasn’t.

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:38 pm

WJ Guitars wrote:
Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:00 pm
Wow the guitar is looking great! Spraying not far away.

Wayne
https://wjguitars.wixsite.com/mysite-1
Thanks. I’ll try add info on my painting process on this build as well. I won’t be spraying this in a booth, it’ll be getting done here at the workshop, so it’ll be a more DIY style paint that anyone can do at home, if they can spray 2k without close neighbours.

User avatar
kiwigeo
Admin
Posts: 9697
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: Adelaide, Sth Australia

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by kiwigeo » Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:46 pm

demonx wrote:
Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:35 pm

It wasn’t that, it was the cheap piece of shite router. I’d never recommend a triton router to anyone.

As I was routing it decided to readjust the cutter height and the bearing moved off the template. I was lucky I realised reasonably quickly before any real damage was done.

I much prefer my dewalt handheld router, but it was mounted in a jig and this one wasn’t.
I used to use bearing guided bits but I found guide bushings and 1/2" straight/dovetails cutters worked better for me. With the guide bushing you can cut the mortise/tenon as a gradually deepening cut and not have to stuff around with bits of plastic tube to position the bearing on the cutter shaft.
Martin

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:38 am

kiwigeo wrote:
Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:46 pm
With the guide bushing you can cut the mortise/tenon as a gradually deepening cut and not have to stuff around with bits of plastic tube to position the bearing on the cutter shaft.
I’m not sure what you mean by plastic tube on the shaft? Are you talking manual depth adjustment via the cutting piece?

All my routers are plunge routers, so depth adjustments are made on the router, not the cutting bit.

User avatar
kiwigeo
Admin
Posts: 9697
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: Adelaide, Sth Australia

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by kiwigeo » Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:14 am

demonx wrote:
Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:38 am
kiwigeo wrote:
Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:46 pm
With the guide bushing you can cut the mortise/tenon as a gradually deepening cut and not have to stuff around with bits of plastic tube to position the bearing on the cutter shaft.
I’m not sure what you mean by plastic tube on the shaft? Are you talking manual depth adjustment via the cutting piece?

All my routers are plunge routers, so depth adjustments are made on the router, not the cutting bit.
With the LMI style templates youre using and a bearing bit the bearing needs to run against the template. If you're adjusting the depth of cut the bearing position on the cutter shaft has to be adjusted as well. ON a lot of the bearing cutters that are supplied for use with these templates there are two pieces of plastic tube that slip over the cutter shaft and hold the bearing in position. Position of bearing is adjusted by changing the lengths of the plastic tubing.

https://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_R ... uting.html
Martin

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:24 am

kiwigeo wrote:
Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:14 am

Position of bearing is adjusted by changing the lengths of the plastic tubing.
I’ve never seen/heard of it done that way, when using those style plexi templates (which I used to use all the time on my electrics pre CNC) I always just changed to different length cutting bits. Which I’m guessing is quicker than playing around with plastic tubes!

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:05 pm

I had a bit of spare time in the arvo so I roughed the neck profile.

My method for this is to use a flap disc for waste removal, working close to some freehand greylead lines. This takes only a couple of minutes.

I follow with a dragon rasp, followed by an 80 grit sand.

334FF462-9E15-48C1-A590-54EA153BC65E.jpeg
E743254D-B02B-4A53-90D7-43650655A107.jpeg
1C184528-8D1E-472A-99C6-DDB37731B0B6.jpeg
9EBD70D2-3B50-4FE4-8065-4EC5FBC9C325.jpeg
.

User avatar
kiwigeo
Admin
Posts: 9697
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: Adelaide, Sth Australia

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by kiwigeo » Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:12 pm

That pencil line looks a bit rough....and the teeth on your rasp look very disorderly :mrgreen:
Martin

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Nov 28, 2018 5:26 pm

kiwigeo wrote:
Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:12 pm
That pencil line looks a bit rough....and the teeth on your rasp look very disorderly :mrgreen:

Yeah, a little bit different to a Bunnings one!

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:03 am

Yesterday was supposed to be neck glue day, however nature had other plans and the heel snapped. The joy of working with Blackwood, you only have to look at it the wrong way and it splits, this time it happened when I was tightening the neck bolt during glue up.

I was forced to quickly pull it apart, do a glue cleanup and repair the heel. Luckily it was a nice clean snap and the repair is invisible, I can’t even see where it was now.

Anyway, the two bolts hold the neck in during glue up and it just needs a bit of light pressure to hold the board down to the top.
8D1C64BF-3934-45D9-B028-18F5581353C0.jpeg

D6A7D587-3210-4E5F-9734-568D27B3FF62.jpeg

PeterG
Gidgee
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:03 am

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by PeterG » Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:49 am

Ouch!

I've had that happen with nut inserts just a few too many times. I now use a mortise chisel and put put a square brass block up through the heal per Trevor Gore, never happened since.

Peter

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Dec 12, 2018 2:58 pm

Radiusing and fretwork.

I start off by getting the neck as straight as possible via the truss rod:
2B9E48D7-5E44-4C70-952F-31E238D9897D.jpeg
Then I create guidelines. I use a 20” caul to sand with 80 grit until the guidelines are gone.
039FF451-D526-42FD-9609-E92D0CF42436.jpeg
I the repeat with 120 grit and 320 grit.

After that I lose the caul and hand polish with 600 grit, 2000 grit and then a superfine scotchbrite.
FA51B49A-8F82-4EB1-B120-1B7BA7F96045.jpeg

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Dec 12, 2018 3:01 pm

Fret installed using a hammer. I trim the tang using a summit trimmer. I find them MUCH better than the stewmac guillitine.

I then use a fret expander and gently squeeze the ends, then I use a file to make the trimmed underneath flush.

Acetone is used to clean up any superglue squeeze out.


I use tape three pieces thick as a shield on the top of the guitar whilst filing the fret edges smooth.
268DFAF9-A54E-433E-B8E1-6FA724E36060.jpeg
ADAC07FD-607B-408B-87C6-87CED2DFFF07.jpeg
96B93631-E91B-4B2C-9027-760D985F23A1.jpeg

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Wed Dec 12, 2018 3:59 pm

I use the old “texts in the fret” track before I do a level, then I crown by running 320 grit along the length of the board held lightly in my fingers, followed by 600, 1000, OOO steel wool and then a scotch brite.
2F53A68B-F3C1-4F1B-B21F-13B136CF0271.jpeg
I remove the tape and do the edges using the same grits as above except I use a thin piece of ebony as a sanding caul.
FFCE68AC-E199-4C72-B93E-A1CECB92E64D.jpeg
I then roll the edges using a stewmac fret end file and then go over the whole lot again with OOO and scotch brite.

You can see by the few bumps on the tape it was well worth putting it on.
F42A316D-0710-423D-BA59-5313D18E0C6F.jpeg
This is how I leave the frets up until after the guitar is painted, then after paint they’ll get a final polish using a buffer.

User avatar
kiwigeo
Admin
Posts: 9697
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: Adelaide, Sth Australia

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by kiwigeo » Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:36 pm

Looking good.... :)
Martin

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Thu Dec 13, 2018 12:40 pm

Not much time for this build lately, however I at least ticked one more job off the list today, the bridge position.

First I measure from the nut to the front of the bridge, then I’ll run the straight edge along the edge of the fingerboard.

As much as I’d like to think the centreline on the top set is always perfectly straight, at the end of the day it’s the fingerboard which will determine the bridge position. By a stroke of luck this one seemed to line up correctly with the centerline if the top set, so I must’ve done something right!
30384782-B417-4AE7-A12F-83C1181A9275.jpeg
Then I use the same fingerboard method to square off the bridge and mark the two location holes:
6CAD9ED7-B263-4961-9522-1343F6180A53.jpeg
Once the holes are drilled, all pencil markings are no longer needed and the guitar can be sanded ready for paint prep. After paint, no more measurements are needed as I simply drop the bridge mounting bolts through the holes and they do the alignment for me at bridge glue stage.
46DABEEC-71C8-426D-8147-C1B40A4AE945.jpeg

User avatar
demonx
Blackwood
Posts: 1337
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:55 pm
Location: Ballarat Victoria
Contact:

Re: Acacia dread build thread

Post by demonx » Fri Dec 14, 2018 11:34 am

I usually don’t pore fill acoustics as the Mirotone sealer does a good job of that, however I figured this Blackwood could use a helping hand, so a mixture of Zpoxy with a dash of acetone was wiped over it.

I’m glad I did as it highlighted a drum sander scratch I had missed on my “by eye” inspection. If I hadn’t have epoxied it’s a mark that wouldn’t have been seen until after paint and would be a giant pain in the butt.
389142E8-593E-44BD-B86F-E093C0C3FA22.jpeg

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests