T-Track

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Dennis Leahy
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T-Track

Post by Dennis Leahy » Sat Oct 10, 2009 11:58 pm

T-Track is sort of like duct tape - it has more uses than you can imagine.

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Incra T-Track ($17.99 per 4 foot section)

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Rockler T-Track ($19.99 per 4 foot section)

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McMaster Carr T-Track ($9.94 per 4 foot section)

Because that was spread out, here's a recap of pricing from 2 popular brand names, plus McMaster Carr:
Incra T-Track ($17.99 per 4 foot section)
Rockler T-Track ($19.99 per 4 foot section)
McMaster Carr T-Track ($9.94 per 4 foot section)
They are all extruded aluminum, and all appear to me to be the same dimensions. Looks like if you want a color anodized extrusion, you pay twice as much.

Kreg is another name in this arena, and their stuff is priced at the high end of the scale - my guess is that these guys all probably buy the same aluminum extrusions from the same metal extruder/fabricator.

Rockler sells an intersection kit for about $20, but this could easily be done on a chopsaw:
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You can use a variety of bolts on T-Tracks, and probably the most popular is a T-Bolt:
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(These are from Rockler, at over $1 each, but surprisingly right now the longest bolts (3" ) are on sale for $0.29 each) The T-Bolts from Incra can't really be $7.50 to $11.99 per T-Bolt, can they? http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200177 ... -3-12.aspx

T-Bolts are used with a matching threaded knob:
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(Rockler photo.) The 5-lobed star shaped one in the middle would be typical to use with the T-Bolt shown above. The one on the right, with the threaded stud, would be used with a sliding T-Nut (for use in a T-Track) or just a plain T-Nut for a fixed jig. The 5-lobed star shaped 5/16-18 knobs at Rockler are $1.89 each. McMaster Carr has them for $0.88 each.

It looks like the hold down clamps are specialty items. Rockler and Incra have them for $9.99 and $8.99 each:
Image Image
$20 for a pair of these seem pretty steep to this cheap bastard! I know for a fact that a stout piece of wood can be used the same way, but these do look like they do a good job.

Here's another place I found, HartvilleTool, that sells their version of a T-Track hold down for $4.49 the large (A) and $3.49 for the mini hold down (B):
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Even though a number of photos on sites show hex-head bolts being used, I would not recomment that they ever be used in these aluminum tracks - too easy to distort the track in tightening the bolt, and if you're afraid to tighten properly you may end up clamping too loosely and have a disaster when something moves.

So, my contribution was simply showing some T-Track pieces and alternative suppliers with pricing, but not any specific cool lutherie jig.

If these US companies will not ship directly to AU/NZ, (probably because you bastards will all make weapons for Al Quaeda in your woodshops!), then you may need to contact one of your mates in the US.

Dennis
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Lillian
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Post by Lillian » Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:42 am

Dennis, you left out McFeely's

http://www.mcfeelys.com/jigs-and-fixtures

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Post by Kim » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:14 am

Thanks for the effort Dennis and Lillian, looks like i have a bit of home work to do but one thing is clear, than anodizing looks very nice, but it is not THAT nice.

Cheers

Kim

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Post by kiwigeo » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:22 am

Lillian wrote:Dennis, you left out McFeely's
McFeely's??? Good God that sounds like a name for an adult supplies shop

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Post by Lillian » Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:10 am

It does.

Their slogan is "The Square Drive Screw Authority". Its doesn't help, does it?

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Post by Nick » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:50 am

This thread has gone from Channel to gutter in three short posts :lol:
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Post by Kim » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:54 am

This 'is' the ANZLF Nick, i was waiting for something really mature to be posted about "T" nuts, hold downs, and sheep :lol:

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Post by Dominic » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:03 am

Dennis and Lillian,
You guys are lucky in one way to live over there with so many suppliers around. McMaster Carr won't ship to Australia last time I tried to buy some hardware. And the price is often doubled once you include shipping for stuff like long T track sections. So we are stuck with local suppliers for a lot of this stuff.

Although the dollar is looking pretty good again (ours not yours) so there could be some good buys around.

Cheers
Dom
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Nick
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Post by Nick » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:21 am

Kim wrote:This 'is' the ANZLF Nick, i was waiting for something really mature to be posted about "T" nuts, hold downs, and sheep :lol:
You are right Kim, this is the ANZLF thankfully! and Martin usually manages to bring something to the table in the humour stakes, that's one of the reasons I hang out here 8)
Oh & by the way, the Kiwi sheep are so well trained that we don't have need of hold downs or "T" nuts, just a good sturdy pair of gumboots.

And Dominic, you should try living in NZ! especially in the South Island! If you want Bunnings and their ilk type products, no problems but if it's something a little "special" it either has to come from the Northern warehouse (I.e.-the North Island) or overseas and our exchange rate is even more crap than yours at the moment!
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Post by kiwigeo » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:33 am

Nick O wrote:You are right Kim, this is the ANZLF thankfully! and Martin usually manages to bring something to the table in the humour stakes, that's one of the reasons I hang out here 8)
Unfortunately while Im out here at work you guys are my lifeline to the sane world. You will find that the my sense of humour gradually becomes more and more absurd the longer I stay out here.

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Post by Nick » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:46 am

kiwigeo wrote:Unfortunately while Im out here at work you guys are my lifeline to the sane world. You will find that the my sense of humour gradually becomes more and more absurd the longer I stay out here.
Well I hope the bugger you are filling in for appreciates it!
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Post by Kim » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:08 am

I'm still chuckling about your quip from the track to the gutter in 3 post Nick and Martin does manage to bring some good humor in to most thing and i would not change that either.

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Post by Kim » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:46 am

Getting back on "track" so to speak, I notice that the Incra track looks to be the tallest with a deeper 'dust' recess at the base of the track. The sides are also relieved resulting in a strong looking "I" beam profile and the McMasters Carr product looks to be the same extrusion without the anodizing.

The Kreg track looks to be a different extrusion, it is more 'solid' form and the shallower T bolt head slot could be a good thing or a bad thing as far as binding and jamming during adjustment.

The track offered by Hartville looks to be different again with thinner walls. it is slotted on the outside of the profile and I imagine this would be to add strength. This may be a good thing but I suspect it is to compensate for a cheaper, softer, alloy used in it's construction.

To me the tensile strength of the alloy would need to be a major consideration in this application. So aside from the anodizing, that may be why you pay a premium for both the Incra and the Kreg products. With that in mind, it looks like the McMasters Carr product offers the best bang for your buck but I would like to do a flex test to compare the tensile strength of the Incra product against that offered by MC before i could be firm on that.

Interesting that McFeely's seem to focus on quality products such as Festool etc. They carry lots of Kreg bits and pieces, but the only carry the Incra Track and that may or may not have some bearing on how they score these products in the quality stakes.

Correction, a quick search reveals that McFeely's do in fact carry Kreg T Track.

Cheers

Kim

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Post by John Maddison » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:47 pm

Dominic wrote:the dollar is looking pretty good again (ours not yours)
This ABC News story reckons it'll get a whole lot better :). I'm holding off on a spending spree.
John M

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Post by Dennis Leahy » Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:05 pm

I was thinking that "McFeely's" sounds like an adult Happy Meal at MacDonalds.

Dominic, are you going to sit there and type that you don't know anyone in the US that would be willing to post something to you? :lol: Yes, the postage may make a transaction too expensive, but the policy of some US company not to ship to our mates on the south side of the equator can be dealt with. Swiftly. And, harshly.

Kim, I don't doubt that some of the T-Track out there is junk. I have seen so many quality tool options replaced with Chinese junk. I know a lot of companies are selling junk to bolster the illusion that their prices are low (shitty quality tools are actually more expensive, not less, in my opinion.) So, yes, do your homework before selecting any of this T-Track. I tried to find some reviews or comparisons, but so far have not found any. I see references to people buying T-Track, and no one is complaining. Maybe the T-Track market hasn't been adulterated with crap yet.

Here's another place:
TTrackUSA: http://www.ttrackusa.com/track_%20systems.htm#1018

Ya know, these extrusions, being aluminum, are not really very heavy, in terms of shipping weight. Buy the heavier (steel) items like the T-Track bolts, if available closer to home if you think that will save on shipping weight/overall cost. Might also be good to look at the USPS website and see what they consider "oversize", and maybe it would be wise to buy 2 foot or3 foot sections instead of 4-footers (if it saves a lot on shipping a cardboard tube.)

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Post by John Steele » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:33 pm

Just a thought guys, but if you are having problems "tracking down T-track" in the Oz, Maybe try a local metal retailer/distributer. T-track seems to me could be a standard extruded Aluminium product that some metal retailers may be able to stock or order. I used to purchase metals from shops and they had a wide variety of extruded stock (least in the states). Might be worth a phone call or two. Doubt if you'll get the cool anodized version, tho. :P
But 6061 is decent stuff.
J
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Post by Dominic » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:38 pm

Hi, Dennis, can't think off anyone of hand. Just a bunch of damn yanks. :wink:

But as I said in my other post, the local aluminum place has stuff that is like T track just without the sexy colour.

I like the link you put up though because it has the real low profile track which is better when mounting it flush in 18mm mdf or ply because it leaves more meat under the track.

Dom
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T-Track

Post by Chopper » Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:24 pm

G'Day Everyone,
Dom, with the low profile T-track I don't rout a channel in the MDF but face the MDF with Masonite which is the same height as the channel. Masonite is known as tempered hardboard in the States I think. You can fix the channel first and then butt Masonite up against either side for a neat fit, flush trim router around the edge after glueing. I get the channel from Capral here in Canberra which fits 1/4 ' cuphead bolts or toilet seat bolts. I also face the reverse side of the MDF for stability and solidity.
Cheers Chopper

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Post by Lillian » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:31 pm

Chopper, it's known by both names here.

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Post by Joe Sustaire » Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:45 pm

Thanks for the t-track link Dennis! I also noticed that they have UHMW for the best price I've seen, the 3/4"x4"x48" for $22 instead of around $50 I've seen elsewhere. That's the size for making those great rosette cutters for your router.

Joe
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Post by Dennis Leahy » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:25 am

Joe Sustaire wrote:Thanks for the t-track link Dennis! I also noticed that they have UHMW for the best price I've seen, the 3/4"x4"x48" for $22 instead of around $50 I've seen elsewhere. That's the size for making those great rosette cutters for your router.

Joe
Joe,
I heard some luthier mention that some cheap cutting boards are UHMW - might be another resource for bigger chunks.

I also saw the UHMW strips at TTRackUSA, but the ones that caught my eye were 3/4" x 3/8" x 36" UHMW Miter/Jig Bar, which should make cool sleds. But then I spied this stuff, to build sleds and sliding tables, and this looks really interesting:

Image

I have made a number of sleds (poor man's sliding table saw) over the years, using a piece of 3/8" x 3/4" hardwood for the runner. Some are more successful than others, and slide nicely with no slop. Others I have had to sand down and/or wax because they would start sticking, or else the opposite - I'd have to add tape (like that rayon-reinforced packaging tape) to the edges of the wood to take out slop. But this nesting aluminum solution should be a lot more consistent. I'm sure this is "old hat" to many of you, but this stuff is new to me.

If any of you are unfamiliar with "sleds" on a tablesaw (or bandsaw, or router table...), you build a plywood or MDF sled wide enough so that the wood will be cut off by the saw blade, and run it through once. That establishes the edge of the jig. Then you can clamp the wood/timber down and run the sled past the blade to cut a straight edge. Perfect for tapering the width of a fingerboard, and for establishing the first straight line for a pair of plates (top, back, head, ...) - even if you are going to further plane and/or sand those new edges.

Dennis
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Post by thommo » Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:57 am

Hi Guys, I've heard that Carba-Tec are going tobe bringing in the full range of Kreg & Incra shortly, so you'll have all the T-Track you need & most importantly the nuts to suit these tracks. :D
Thommo

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