The "K-Sled" Kerfing Jig
Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 11:20 pm
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"Originally Posted on: Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:29 am "
The "KSled" Kerfing Jig Acknowledgements
Ok, let's start by giving credit for this jig where it is most due and I want to be quite clear that it is not with me. As far as I am aware, this jig was probably first conceived/developed by Frank Ford, host of Frets.com, the most informative guitar repair and construction web site on the Internet. If I have this detail wrong then I apologise profusely to whom ever the clever cookie was that came up with this idea. Frank's site was certainly the first place that I ever saw it in action.
(Here is a link to Franks site where he not only explains how the jig works, but also demonstrates just how incredibly fast this jig produces kerfed linings with a link to a 5.2MB demo movie clip: http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Too ... erfer.html )
Next, we need to give credit to Daniel Huskey, an OLF member who was kind enough to put together an image based tutorial to help remove the mystery and show that this thing is not really as complicated as it first appears.
Disclaimer
Before we move on, please understand that this tutorial was originally posted in the USA. This is why all measurements are in imperial, and some materials are referred to by their generic USA names. I chose to write the tutorial in this way because most Aussies and Kiwis have already had to relearn these measurements and terms given that the richest resources for learning our chosen craft are based in the USA. Therefore, I figured keeping to this format would inconvenience least amount of people.
I must now mention that I submit this information in good faith and as a general guide only. I do this only in the hope that my effort will assist those wishing to exercise their own skills to safely construct this project. Power tools, hand tools, and any other associated materials that are listed or suggested as being required for completion of this project, and indeed the workshop environment in general, can be very dangerous. If you are not familiar with the safe operating procedures of any of the listed tools or equipment, or the safe handling procedures of any of the materials listed or suggested, please do not proceed. Regardless of your skill level, should you choose to proceed with this project, please understand that it is entirely at your own risk. With this advice, I hereby indemnify myself and all others, including the ANZLF and anyone else associated with this submission against any level of liability or responsibility to any person or persons whom may suffer, cause or incur any personal injury or loss of property what so ever during the construction and or operation of this apparatus.
Ok, now that we fully understand that when building this jig, should you at any time exit your shop, your body mass now being a few grams less than when you went in, it be your own silly fault, the formalities are over. However before we move on, I will ask for patience and understanding from the more experienced craftsman who may decide to use this tutorial for the fairly long-winded way I have chosen to present this information. I just felt that as I will not have much control over who reads this once posted, it be best to play safe and explain what I can. If at anytime throughout this submission my own knowledge or advice should be found wanting I apologise in advance but if you can build a guitar, you should be able to nut this one out.
A note on materials.
Once you understand how it works, you could probably make this jig with what ever materials you have at hand which you think may fit the bill. So up to a point substitutions are fine, however I do consider Daniel's use of Lexan (Perspex for Aussies, Poms and Kiwis but from here on in I will just stick with Lexan to avoid confusion) for the friction surfaces is very clever. Lexan is smooth, quite rigid and relatively easy to work. It drills well, takes a thread well enough, glues OK, and is readily available, quite often for free as off cuts from glaziers, and it even looks cool. Those point considered, it is quite literally the clear choice.
A cautionary note about working with Lexan.
I have found that Lexan is best cut with a bandsaw fitted with a fine toothed blade designed for cutting metal and that shaping is best done with an abrasive Belt or Drum Sander.
You can straighten the edge of a sheet of Lexan with a planer/buzzer, you can also cut it with a table saw but be very careful, IT CAN SHATTER! Especially if old or been exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period. The safest way to perform these operations is to first understand that the material you will be pushing on towards the blade has the potential to disintegrate in your hand if not respected, use a push stick. You MUST also wear eye protection, and understand that sharp tools and shallow cuts are the only way forward. Eg: If you must use a table saw, use a fine toothed blade, minimum of 40TPI, and adjust the blade right down until the crown only just cuts through the surface of the material. This way the blade will act as a scribe as it meets the material making for a much cleaner and safer cut. Under no circumstances should you ever attempt to cut Lexan with a course toothed ripping blade or with the blade raised any higher than necessary. The hammering action of the saw teeth impacting directly on the edge and surface of the Lexan in such a situation can be extremely dangerous.
Lexan drills well leaving a very neat crisp hole as long as you don't force to hard on the bit and cause breakout, but once again you need to be careful. If you try to bore too larger hole all at once, the material can/will grab very easy. This can be very dangerous, even in a drill press. Never attempt to hold a work piece by hand, should/when it grabs breaking free from your grip, it will spin and may shatter into a razor edge coming back round to end your days as a player. A simple rule of thumb: Always clamp firmly and then drill or you may not have one to rule by. When drilling larger holes, use safe gradual progression in drill size, a moderate speed, and once again, a sharp cutting tools. If you need to drill or shape a small piece of Lexan that will be difficult to clamp safely, try shaping the piece and drilling the required holes in a larger bit of material and then cut the component to size as in the images below.
Daniel's Image Based Tutorial
I will discuss a cut list and some minor modifications that I made to this jig later, but next we will take a look at Daniel Huskey's image based guide as was sent to me. I found that there was enough information in this guide to complete the project so I would imagine that this is all that a lot of you will need to do the same. However I will add a few points of clarification to help out after you have viewed the images, I highly recommend that you read all of what is here before you go drilling or cutting anything. It is just good practice and you may also have a much better way of doing things than I so it will save you time and material to look things over before proceeding.
Hello Kim,
Here is the info I promised.
To use the Kerfing Sled you will need a band saw, but you already knew that. As I said earlier, I make all of my linings. I see no need in buying something that is so easy to make, and in your case paying a high shipping charge.
The K.Sled is really simple. It rides in the miter gauge slot on the band saw. Any size bandsaw. As you advance the sled toward the blade, the index arm strikes a plate and moves the strip what ever distance you have it adjusted for. Then the strip contacts the blade and the kerf is cut stopping at a set depth.
Here is some photos:
(You can download, view and print the full size image of the cut plan from this link: http://members.iinet.com.au/~larkim/lar ... anfull.jpg )
"Originally Posted on: Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:29 am "
The "KSled" Kerfing Jig Acknowledgements
Ok, let's start by giving credit for this jig where it is most due and I want to be quite clear that it is not with me. As far as I am aware, this jig was probably first conceived/developed by Frank Ford, host of Frets.com, the most informative guitar repair and construction web site on the Internet. If I have this detail wrong then I apologise profusely to whom ever the clever cookie was that came up with this idea. Frank's site was certainly the first place that I ever saw it in action.
(Here is a link to Franks site where he not only explains how the jig works, but also demonstrates just how incredibly fast this jig produces kerfed linings with a link to a 5.2MB demo movie clip: http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Too ... erfer.html )
Next, we need to give credit to Daniel Huskey, an OLF member who was kind enough to put together an image based tutorial to help remove the mystery and show that this thing is not really as complicated as it first appears.
Disclaimer
Before we move on, please understand that this tutorial was originally posted in the USA. This is why all measurements are in imperial, and some materials are referred to by their generic USA names. I chose to write the tutorial in this way because most Aussies and Kiwis have already had to relearn these measurements and terms given that the richest resources for learning our chosen craft are based in the USA. Therefore, I figured keeping to this format would inconvenience least amount of people.
I must now mention that I submit this information in good faith and as a general guide only. I do this only in the hope that my effort will assist those wishing to exercise their own skills to safely construct this project. Power tools, hand tools, and any other associated materials that are listed or suggested as being required for completion of this project, and indeed the workshop environment in general, can be very dangerous. If you are not familiar with the safe operating procedures of any of the listed tools or equipment, or the safe handling procedures of any of the materials listed or suggested, please do not proceed. Regardless of your skill level, should you choose to proceed with this project, please understand that it is entirely at your own risk. With this advice, I hereby indemnify myself and all others, including the ANZLF and anyone else associated with this submission against any level of liability or responsibility to any person or persons whom may suffer, cause or incur any personal injury or loss of property what so ever during the construction and or operation of this apparatus.
Ok, now that we fully understand that when building this jig, should you at any time exit your shop, your body mass now being a few grams less than when you went in, it be your own silly fault, the formalities are over. However before we move on, I will ask for patience and understanding from the more experienced craftsman who may decide to use this tutorial for the fairly long-winded way I have chosen to present this information. I just felt that as I will not have much control over who reads this once posted, it be best to play safe and explain what I can. If at anytime throughout this submission my own knowledge or advice should be found wanting I apologise in advance but if you can build a guitar, you should be able to nut this one out.
A note on materials.
Once you understand how it works, you could probably make this jig with what ever materials you have at hand which you think may fit the bill. So up to a point substitutions are fine, however I do consider Daniel's use of Lexan (Perspex for Aussies, Poms and Kiwis but from here on in I will just stick with Lexan to avoid confusion) for the friction surfaces is very clever. Lexan is smooth, quite rigid and relatively easy to work. It drills well, takes a thread well enough, glues OK, and is readily available, quite often for free as off cuts from glaziers, and it even looks cool. Those point considered, it is quite literally the clear choice.
A cautionary note about working with Lexan.
I have found that Lexan is best cut with a bandsaw fitted with a fine toothed blade designed for cutting metal and that shaping is best done with an abrasive Belt or Drum Sander.
You can straighten the edge of a sheet of Lexan with a planer/buzzer, you can also cut it with a table saw but be very careful, IT CAN SHATTER! Especially if old or been exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period. The safest way to perform these operations is to first understand that the material you will be pushing on towards the blade has the potential to disintegrate in your hand if not respected, use a push stick. You MUST also wear eye protection, and understand that sharp tools and shallow cuts are the only way forward. Eg: If you must use a table saw, use a fine toothed blade, minimum of 40TPI, and adjust the blade right down until the crown only just cuts through the surface of the material. This way the blade will act as a scribe as it meets the material making for a much cleaner and safer cut. Under no circumstances should you ever attempt to cut Lexan with a course toothed ripping blade or with the blade raised any higher than necessary. The hammering action of the saw teeth impacting directly on the edge and surface of the Lexan in such a situation can be extremely dangerous.
Lexan drills well leaving a very neat crisp hole as long as you don't force to hard on the bit and cause breakout, but once again you need to be careful. If you try to bore too larger hole all at once, the material can/will grab very easy. This can be very dangerous, even in a drill press. Never attempt to hold a work piece by hand, should/when it grabs breaking free from your grip, it will spin and may shatter into a razor edge coming back round to end your days as a player. A simple rule of thumb: Always clamp firmly and then drill or you may not have one to rule by. When drilling larger holes, use safe gradual progression in drill size, a moderate speed, and once again, a sharp cutting tools. If you need to drill or shape a small piece of Lexan that will be difficult to clamp safely, try shaping the piece and drilling the required holes in a larger bit of material and then cut the component to size as in the images below.
Daniel's Image Based Tutorial
I will discuss a cut list and some minor modifications that I made to this jig later, but next we will take a look at Daniel Huskey's image based guide as was sent to me. I found that there was enough information in this guide to complete the project so I would imagine that this is all that a lot of you will need to do the same. However I will add a few points of clarification to help out after you have viewed the images, I highly recommend that you read all of what is here before you go drilling or cutting anything. It is just good practice and you may also have a much better way of doing things than I so it will save you time and material to look things over before proceeding.
Hello Kim,
Here is the info I promised.
To use the Kerfing Sled you will need a band saw, but you already knew that. As I said earlier, I make all of my linings. I see no need in buying something that is so easy to make, and in your case paying a high shipping charge.
The K.Sled is really simple. It rides in the miter gauge slot on the band saw. Any size bandsaw. As you advance the sled toward the blade, the index arm strikes a plate and moves the strip what ever distance you have it adjusted for. Then the strip contacts the blade and the kerf is cut stopping at a set depth.
Here is some photos:
(You can download, view and print the full size image of the cut plan from this link: http://members.iinet.com.au/~larkim/lar ... anfull.jpg )