bicycle inner tube clamping for fingerboard gluing
- Mark McLean
- Blackwood
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- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:03 pm
- Location: Sydney
bicycle inner tube clamping for fingerboard gluing
On saturday the workshop became a bike repair shop because my son decided to pull his old bike out from under the house and get it going again. Both tyres were flat and one had multiple punctures so we put a new tube in it. After a bit of work on the gears and brakes it was good to go. Next day I got back to doing some guitar building - gluing the fingerboard on a prototype of a 13 fret neck for a Nick Lucal style L-00. The old inner tube was still lying on the workbench and I wondered how it would go as a clamping system. A test run on some scrap seemed to work well - similar to the rubber band technique some people use when gluing bindings.
Here is the neck bolted to a slotted beam (a piece of lattice frame left over from the garden) so that it can be held securely in the vise. This gives good access from all sides.
The nut blank is sitting in a pre-cut slot and now the fingerboard is located with reference to the nut and the body join (13th fret). After a dry run I glue it (Titebond, but I am keen to hear if others prefer epoxy for this joint?) and hold it in place with the clamps and headless panel pins through 2 fret slots. Then I start wrapping the rubber innertube from the nut end. The bicycle tube has been cut open along its length and then cut in halves longitudinally. You need to give it a good wash to get the powdery stuff off the inside.
You stretch it on each turn to get nice firm clamping pressure. Don't worry about glue squeeze-out because the rubber doesn't bond to Titebond (I haven't tested this with other adhesives). You can do the whole length of the neck in only a minute or two. Move a clamp as you get to it and then replace it over the rubber. Thak an extra turn or two at the end and secure the end with a clamp.
The nut blank is still there, under the rubber. I went ahead and glued the headstock veneer at the same time. Its end was cut at the correct angle to sit flush against the nut. I unwrapped a little of the rubber to expose the nut and then glued the veneer piece (curly blackwood, black fibre, maple) in place. I again held it with clamps and wrapped it with rubber tube. I put some clamps back over the middle section just for good measure. Before gluing I removed the tape covering the slot for truss-rod nut and was careful to clean up any glue there.
I left it clamped overnight and in the morning it was all solid and the rubber peeled off very cleanly. That tube can be used again and again. Here is a picture of the neck after shaping, radiusing, fretting and finishing.
Here is the neck bolted to a slotted beam (a piece of lattice frame left over from the garden) so that it can be held securely in the vise. This gives good access from all sides.
The nut blank is sitting in a pre-cut slot and now the fingerboard is located with reference to the nut and the body join (13th fret). After a dry run I glue it (Titebond, but I am keen to hear if others prefer epoxy for this joint?) and hold it in place with the clamps and headless panel pins through 2 fret slots. Then I start wrapping the rubber innertube from the nut end. The bicycle tube has been cut open along its length and then cut in halves longitudinally. You need to give it a good wash to get the powdery stuff off the inside.
You stretch it on each turn to get nice firm clamping pressure. Don't worry about glue squeeze-out because the rubber doesn't bond to Titebond (I haven't tested this with other adhesives). You can do the whole length of the neck in only a minute or two. Move a clamp as you get to it and then replace it over the rubber. Thak an extra turn or two at the end and secure the end with a clamp.
The nut blank is still there, under the rubber. I went ahead and glued the headstock veneer at the same time. Its end was cut at the correct angle to sit flush against the nut. I unwrapped a little of the rubber to expose the nut and then glued the veneer piece (curly blackwood, black fibre, maple) in place. I again held it with clamps and wrapped it with rubber tube. I put some clamps back over the middle section just for good measure. Before gluing I removed the tape covering the slot for truss-rod nut and was careful to clean up any glue there.
I left it clamped overnight and in the morning it was all solid and the rubber peeled off very cleanly. That tube can be used again and again. Here is a picture of the neck after shaping, radiusing, fretting and finishing.
Another good idea Mark. When I first started out I bought some really heavy duty rubber bands from the local Newsagent since we don't have any bicycles laying around. It's amazing how much pressure that clamping like this will create.
I've switched to using epoxy for glueing fret boards, as well as laminating necks. I'm using carbon fiber rods that are inlayed partially into the fret board, so they have to be set in epoxy, but even so, I'd probably still go that way instead of water based glues for these joints.
Nice looking neck BTW. Those look like Stew Macs vintage tuners. What do you think of them?
I've switched to using epoxy for glueing fret boards, as well as laminating necks. I'm using carbon fiber rods that are inlayed partially into the fret board, so they have to be set in epoxy, but even so, I'd probably still go that way instead of water based glues for these joints.
Nice looking neck BTW. Those look like Stew Macs vintage tuners. What do you think of them?
- Hippety Hop
- Blackwood
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- Location: Moorabbin
- Mark McLean
- Blackwood
- Posts: 1087
- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:03 pm
- Location: Sydney
Most "new" ideas are just borrowed. Even if you don't have a broken bicycle lying around you can buy inner tubes from K-Mart for less than $5.
Allen, those are the Golden Age tuners from Stew-Mac. I haven't finished the guitar yet so I haven't put them to the test under string tension. They look good for this instrument, which will have an old-timey sort of character. Their look would not be good for a sleek modern style guitar because the metal is "aged" and looks sort of dull. The open gear mechanism feels good and there is no loose play in the winders (unlike the last set of open gear Schallers that I bought - very sloppy). The price is pretty good. I'll let you know how they perform.
Allen, those are the Golden Age tuners from Stew-Mac. I haven't finished the guitar yet so I haven't put them to the test under string tension. They look good for this instrument, which will have an old-timey sort of character. Their look would not be good for a sleek modern style guitar because the metal is "aged" and looks sort of dull. The open gear mechanism feels good and there is no loose play in the winders (unlike the last set of open gear Schallers that I bought - very sloppy). The price is pretty good. I'll let you know how they perform.
- Taffy Evans
- Blackwood
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- Dave White
- Blackwood
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I use this technique too!!!Taffy Evans wrote:I've used this length of rubber for over thirty years for bindings and necks. It was cut in one continuous length from a 4x4 innertube.
I do a lot of serious mileage with cycling and go through a lot of inner tubes..and thought this was a handy way to glue bindings on the guitar body.
Whatever you do, don't economise by slitting the inners in half thinking you'd get more mileage...I punched myself quite severely in the face once after the tube snapped.......
Looking good!
Mark I'm a big L00 fan so I'll be watching this, I guess that was you on MIMF talking about Lucas details too.
I've always loved the fact that the same guitar body ( give or take a migratory sound hole ) can be found with 12, 13 or 14 frets to the body.
Cheers, have a good one, AP
I'm gonna need some of those tuners for two old Kalamazoos that I have here and I've been wondering how sloppy they are and hoping the 'ageing' wasn't too radical on them.Those look like Stew Macs vintage tuners.
Mark I'm a big L00 fan so I'll be watching this, I guess that was you on MIMF talking about Lucas details too.
I've always loved the fact that the same guitar body ( give or take a migratory sound hole ) can be found with 12, 13 or 14 frets to the body.
Cheers, have a good one, AP
i got a hot rod ford and a two dollar bill, and i know a place right over the hill ...
www.flickr.com/photos/harvesterworks
www.flickr.com/photos/harvesterworks
Mark,
Nice technique with the inner tubes. One thing I'd probably do if I was using this technique is whack in locating pins at 2nd and 12thr fret just as a bit of insurance that the fretboard isnt going to slip during clamp up. I clamp up the fretboard on the neck and then I drill a 1.5mm hole through the fret slot (being careful to offset the hole to miss the truss rod channel). I then whack in a 1.5mm brad with the head nipped off. Once glued up the brad can be pulled out using a set of nail pullers.
Cheers Martin
Nice technique with the inner tubes. One thing I'd probably do if I was using this technique is whack in locating pins at 2nd and 12thr fret just as a bit of insurance that the fretboard isnt going to slip during clamp up. I clamp up the fretboard on the neck and then I drill a 1.5mm hole through the fret slot (being careful to offset the hole to miss the truss rod channel). I then whack in a 1.5mm brad with the head nipped off. Once glued up the brad can be pulled out using a set of nail pullers.
Cheers Martin
- Mark McLean
- Blackwood
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- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:03 pm
- Location: Sydney
Martin
The locating pins sound like good insurance. I will definitely do that next time.
I bent the sides for my new guitar today. This was my first time (I bought pre-bent sides for my first guitar). I am a newby at this stuff and it took me a couple of hours - but I didn't break them and I didn't burn them and they look bloody good. I know you guys have done it lots of times and I am sure you are all pretty slick with the bending iron - But do you remember your first time?
I am going to bed tonight pretty pleased with my effort.
Happy New Year to all.
Mark
The locating pins sound like good insurance. I will definitely do that next time.
I bent the sides for my new guitar today. This was my first time (I bought pre-bent sides for my first guitar). I am a newby at this stuff and it took me a couple of hours - but I didn't break them and I didn't burn them and they look bloody good. I know you guys have done it lots of times and I am sure you are all pretty slick with the bending iron - But do you remember your first time?
I am going to bed tonight pretty pleased with my effort.
Happy New Year to all.
Mark
- ozziebluesman
- Blackwood
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Good on ya Mark!
Yes I remember my first time bending sides. I have only had four goes so far. I was terrified that this bending wood stage in guitar building was going to be a tough learning curve. It turned out ok and I remember being very pleased with myself. Like you it took several hours to get them right.
All good fun aye!
Cheers
Alan
Yes I remember my first time bending sides. I have only had four goes so far. I was terrified that this bending wood stage in guitar building was going to be a tough learning curve. It turned out ok and I remember being very pleased with myself. Like you it took several hours to get them right.
All good fun aye!
Cheers
Alan
Isnt it funny how when youre wife asks you if you remember your first kiss you dont really have a clue but when someone asks you if you remember your first side bend you can give a detailed and complete recollection of the event.Mark McLean wrote:
I bent the sides for my new guitar today. This was my first time (I bought pre-bent sides for my first guitar). I am a newby at this stuff and it took me a couple of hours - but I didn't break them and I didn't burn them and they look bloody good. I know you guys have done it lots of times and I am sure you are all pretty slick with the bending iron - But do you remember your first time?
- Mark McLean
- Blackwood
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- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:03 pm
- Location: Sydney
That is OK Martin. I did use them, but when you made your comment I assumed that I had forgotted to mention them in my original post. I was grateful that you raised it because I think they are an important safeguard.kiwigeo wrote:Mark,Mark McLean wrote:Martin
The locating pins sound like good insurance. I will definitely do that next time.
Ive just re-read the thread and you are actually using location pins. My apologies for not paying better attention to your posts.
Cheers Martin
cheers
Mark
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