LMII's rosette channel cutter
LMII's rosette channel cutter
Having done a walk through on making a very basic rosette, I did a follow up using my LMII rosette channel cutter.
Again I would love to get hold of one of Allens rosette channel cutters as they are super fancy, anyone want to sell me theirs?
This tool from LMII is IMHO, one of the neatest channel cutters on the market, super clean edges
Steve
http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Install_Rosette.html
Again I would love to get hold of one of Allens rosette channel cutters as they are super fancy, anyone want to sell me theirs?
This tool from LMII is IMHO, one of the neatest channel cutters on the market, super clean edges
Steve
http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Install_Rosette.html
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
No tear out.....that's pretty good for a fly cutter. Ive tried a number of the hand cutters, a few fly cutters but in the end I went back to the Stewmac Dremel rosette cutter jig. If there's a risk of tear out I'll do a run around with a hand cutter and then hog out with the Dremel. I stiffen up the top with a few coats of shellac before cutting the rosette.
Martin
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
Yes mate, thought it was worth posting here.
I too have the stewmac router sleds, I have some brass block rosette channel cutting jigs as well, my circle cutter and so forth, the one from LMII works really really nice, but it's important to cut slowly and store the cutters in a box where they won't get damaged,
Good idea on preshellacing the top, never really needed to do it with the LMII unit, but it's a very good precautionary step.
I see the partial rosettes capable of being done with Allens rosette cutter and that is my next goal as I have never cut one of them.
Steve
I too have the stewmac router sleds, I have some brass block rosette channel cutting jigs as well, my circle cutter and so forth, the one from LMII works really really nice, but it's important to cut slowly and store the cutters in a box where they won't get damaged,
Good idea on preshellacing the top, never really needed to do it with the LMII unit, but it's a very good precautionary step.
I see the partial rosettes capable of being done with Allens rosette cutter and that is my next goal as I have never cut one of them.
Steve
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Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
I use the dremel with Kyocera diamond spiral cut bits. The shellec trick also minimises wicking into the spruce when using superglue, thus avoiding the greenish discolouration of the wood and it is a good idea to use a fine applicator of some sort to shellac the sides of the rout but not the bottom if there is a problem with the superglue wicking.
http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/search.ph ... nd&x=0&y=0
http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/search.ph ... nd&x=0&y=0
"Everything I say on the topic is based solely upon inexperience and assumption!"
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
What advantages are there from using superglue?
Steve
Steve
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Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
Well, I prefer HHG or Titebond. I have found that sometimes the superglue is good for assembling rosettes in situ rather than making the rosette off the guitar then inlaying the whole thing as a single piece. It also works for the Selmer Maccaferri style rosettes. Apart from the glue set time. I also use it if there is a partial tear out when working the timbers, as long as the tear is still connected to the wood at one point it can be pressed back down and superglued almost invisible. I put shellac first with the spruce if it is a soundboard injuy to avoid the wicked discolouration around the repair.-RossWhat advantages are there from using superglue?
"Everything I say on the topic is based solely upon inexperience and assumption!"
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
Thanks for the info, it's good to know the reasoning behind things and that all makes sense.
Steve
Steve
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Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
I have the LMI channel cutter and have had good results when used properly. One issue I have is that there is a tremendous amount of backlash in the setting adjustment. So much that I suspect I am missing something or doing something wrong. If the set screw is not tight I can move the blade assembly more than 3 mm back and forth. I set the tool and tighten the set screw which is OK but it would be nice to sneak up on a line using the adjustment knob and then tighten the set screw. Do you have that much backlash?simso wrote: ↑Sat Sep 23, 2017 2:07 pm...
This tool from LMII is IMHO, one of the neatest channel cutters on the market, super clean edges
Steve
http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Install_Rosette.html
...
John
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
Very little backlash on mine
Steve
Steve
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Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
I may be wrong, but I thought it was Micheal Connor's rosette cutter you speak of, not Allen's??
Or at the very least, some sort of collaboration between them. Micheal (user Localele) used to participate on here, but has not for a long time. All the same, he has a business - Micheal Connor Woodwork and I'm sure you could still PM him and he'd get it.
You never know your luck. He may have some components left over he'd be willing to part with or perhaps he could even be sweet talked into doing another batch - there may be a few takers out there. Worth the question.
I employ various methods depending on the job at hand. I use a Japanese circle cutter to score the lines/slice the fibres on my rosettes when required for clean edges. Not the drill press tungsten drill bit style, but the hand cutter. This type of thing:
https://www.carbatec.com.au/joinery-and ... cle-cutter
Though mine is very slightly different to that. Basically just a scalpel blade on an adjustable rule with a centre pin. Pretty straight forward, but very useful. Can be used to cut veneers too. Note though that the blade is beveled and hence, will give a very slight off 90 cut. You could mod to single bevel blade if desired. Then follow up with the router for the bulk of the channel. Can't beat the micro or mini tungsten spiral bits for clean cutting - free hand if scored, or with a circle jig.
Cheers,
Or at the very least, some sort of collaboration between them. Micheal (user Localele) used to participate on here, but has not for a long time. All the same, he has a business - Micheal Connor Woodwork and I'm sure you could still PM him and he'd get it.
You never know your luck. He may have some components left over he'd be willing to part with or perhaps he could even be sweet talked into doing another batch - there may be a few takers out there. Worth the question.
I employ various methods depending on the job at hand. I use a Japanese circle cutter to score the lines/slice the fibres on my rosettes when required for clean edges. Not the drill press tungsten drill bit style, but the hand cutter. This type of thing:
https://www.carbatec.com.au/joinery-and ... cle-cutter
Though mine is very slightly different to that. Basically just a scalpel blade on an adjustable rule with a centre pin. Pretty straight forward, but very useful. Can be used to cut veneers too. Note though that the blade is beveled and hence, will give a very slight off 90 cut. You could mod to single bevel blade if desired. Then follow up with the router for the bulk of the channel. Can't beat the micro or mini tungsten spiral bits for clean cutting - free hand if scored, or with a circle jig.
Cheers,
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
Apologies Michaels jig, still not available
Steve
Steve
Re: LMII's rosette channel cutter
And a forum member has kindly sold me one of Michaels rosette circle cutters.
How cool is that
Steve
How cool is that
Steve
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